
PROCESSES 

HNCWARPING 
AND QUILLING 



Illllli 



Ik 




SAMUEL KLINE 






Class _TSlki2£ 

Book.^ MJ2 

&piglit W! 



COFXRICHT DEPOSm 



A MANUAL 

OF 

THE PROCESSES OF WINDING. 
WARPING AND QUILLING 

of Silk and Other Various Yarns 
from the Skein to the Loom 



BY 

SAMUEL KLINE 



FIRST EDITION 



NEW YORK: 

JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc. 

London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited 
1918 



^ 



4 



Copyright, 1917 

BY 

SAMUEL KLINE 



PRESS OF 

BRAUNWORTH ti CO. 

BOOK MANUFACTURERS 

BROOKLYN, N. V. 



DEC 31 1917 



0)CLA481250 






. I V^ 



H 




rM> \ 






PREFACE 



The purpose of this work is to place at the disposal of the 
beginner, in the mill, a practical handbook on the processes of 
Warping, Winding, Doubling and Quilling of silk yarns, and to 
put before the Owners, Managers, Foremen, and Operatives of 
Silk Mills, the fruits of an experience in these departments stretch- 
ing over a space of many years. It is the earnest hope of the 
writer that this manual will prove to be of special value in this 
field, inasmuch as no attempt has ever before been made, in this 
country, to bring out a reference book embracing such detailed 
statements of the technique of these branches of textile manu- 
facture. 

The matter in this book is based upon a long and practical 
mill experience, supplemented by much special study, and every 
operation detailed herein has been actually done by the writer 
personally. This practical personal experience is here put before 
the reader to help him in deahng with the many troublesome 
details of his daily work. 

The instructive value of these pages can best be realized by 
following the author from cover to cover, and this, if faithfully 
done, will afford to the textile worker those little, but invaluable, 
helps which otherwise could only be obtained by an actual experi- 
ence of many years. 

In these days of competition, the possessor of practical knowl- 
edge has the advantage, and it is from the ranks of the practical 
men that foremen and managers are invariably taken, which posi- 
tions are a long step towards ultimate mill ownership. 

The textile industry, outside of silk manufacturing, is rich in 
the matter of well-written and carefully-prepared technical liter- 
ature, but, in many of these works, the subject is approached 
from a far too general viewpoint, though there are some books 

iii 



iv PREFACE 

which deal carefully and well with special subjects. The tech- 
nique of Winding, Warping, Doubling and Quilling is, however, 
as far as can be ascertained, a subject on which little or nothing 
has been written of such a detailed character as would be of 
practical service to the mill operative. 

While realizing that there must be many shortcomings and 
omissions in such a work, the writer, in placing it before the pubUc, 
'does so in the full confidence that the detailed and comprehensive 
instructions set forth will be of real value to all interested in the 
subject. 

He takes pleasure in expressing his sincere thanks to those 
friends in the trade who have assisted in the compilation of the 
book, and particularly to Mr. James Chittick, of New York, 
Consulting Textile Speciahst, who has carefully revised the 
matter contained herein, and made many valuable suggestions 
and additions. 

Samuel Kline. 

96 Prospect Street, 
Jersey City, N. J. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Materials and Their Care 1 

The Treatment of the Different Materials and their Care. 

II. Winding Processes 3 

Winding Machinery. Winding Machine Space. Winder Swifts. 
Swift Braces. Iron Tension Weights. Spindles. Guiders. 
Power and Speed for Winding Machine. Winding in General. 
Fastening or Securing the End on a Wound Bobbin. Different 
Kinds of Knots. Making and Tying Knots. Winding Coarse 
Material. Mixing in the Winding Operation. Careless Wind- 
ing Operatives. Winding Bobbin Stopper Device. Tracing the 
Workmanship of the Operatives. Artificial Silks. 

III. Warping Processes 21 

Various Warping Systems. Warping Machines. How to Adjust 
the Elevation Irons. Banking, Tjing Up and Reeding a Plain 
or One-colored Warp. Reeding the Cross Reed. To Reed the 
Space Reed. How to Ascertain the Starting Mark of the First 
Section. Preparing the First Section to Wind on the Reel. 
To Set the Measuring Dial. Power-driving Devices. Wind- 
ing the First Section on the Reel. The Second Section of the 
Warp. Beaming Warps. To Make Disposition Warps, Fancy 
Stripes, and Ombres, on the Horizontal Machine without Using 
Swiss Motion. Proper Number of Bobbins to Wind for a Warp. 
Making Warps on the Horizontal, or All-Swiss Motion Machine. 
The Advantage of the Horizontal Plain-warping Machine 
over the Horizontal Swiss Motion Machine. Some of the 
Advantages Gained on the Horizontal with the Swiss Motion 
Attachment. Valuable Points in Warping Operations. Dis- 
position Warps. Unfinished Sections. Lost Ends in the 
Warp. The Matter of Available Yarns. The Creel. The 
Difference between a Creel Containing a Full Set of Fu'.l Bob- 
bins, and One Containing Partly Full Bobbins. The Brake 
Strap. The Guard String. Bobbins that Spin ofif the Pins. 
New Warp Orders. Different Space Reeding. The Construc- 
tion of Warps Containing More Ends in Pattern than Pins on 



vi CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

the Creel. Hazardous Figuring. Increased Length of Warps, 
Due to Increased Circumference. Careless Methods. Memo- 
randum Book. The Quality and Quantity of Beaming Paper. 
The Duties of the Order Clerk. Avoidable Mistakes. Short 
and Long Sections in Horizontal Warping. The Matter of 
Waste on Bobbins. Treadle Strain. Inexperienced Operatives. 
Sample Warps Made on the Horizontal Machine. Ombre 
Warps. The Handling of Swiss Warping Machines. The 
Beaming Machine. Warping with a Low Grade of Silk. 
Picking the Warp. Damaged Warping Reeds. Importance of 
the Lease. Treatment of White Yarns. Careless Warper 
Operatives. Making Use of Old Yarn Lots in Warps. Selvages, 
Edges, or Binders. Power and Speeds for Winding, Warping, 
Beaming and QuiUing Machines. Makeshifts for the Hori- 
zontal Warping Machine. Necessary Tools for Warping. 

IV. Quilling Processes 76 

Quilling. How Quilling is Accomplished. QuiUing and Filhng 
Supply Department. Quill Board Fillers. Process of Dou- 
bling Materials. 

V. Miscellaneous Matters 82 

Supply of Good Bobbins Advantageous. Employing Help. Dis- 
missing Help Temporarily. Complaints. Waste of Materials. 
Light. To Regulate Wages. Arranging Machinery. Plan 
for Machinery Floor Space. Repairs. Supplies Needed. 
Tracing Oil Spots. Luncheon. Sweeping. Table of Bobbin 
Weights. Book Systems. Yard and Meter Measure. Dining, 
Dressing, and Emergency Rooms. Changing One's Position. 

VI. Reminders, Duties and Rules 99 

A Few Reminders for Inventory. Important Duties of a Foreman. 
Rules and Regulations. The Rules. 

VII. Defects and Their Causes 106 

Defective Fabrics. Raw Silk and Silk-throwing Defects. Other 
Yarn-spinning Defects. Dyeing Dyefects. Skein and Quill- 
winding Defects. Warping Defects. Loom and Weaving 
Defects. Miscellaneous Defects. Efficient Mill Administra- 
tion. 

Glossary of Terms 112 

Index 131 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FIO. PAGE 

1. Variable Speed Winder 4 

2. Double-deck Winding Machine 5 

3. Fibre Swift Brace 7 

4. 1. Skein parting and dressing pole. 2. Roll, and skein, of yarn. 

3. Scale for weighing yarn. 4. Bundle of dyed silk yarn. 5. Mill 
basket, with empty bobbins. 6. Fibre mill box with woimd bobbins 9 

5. Different Kinds of Knots, Open and Closed 16 

6. Swiss Sectional Warping Frame, and Creel 22 

7. Horiontal Warper with Warp and eight-yard reel. 1. Tread pedal. 

2. Carriage, and space reed. 3. Stave. 4. Cross reed. 5. Beam- 
ing drive device 23 

8. Section Space Reed. Single-cross Reed. Double-cross Reed. Triple- 

cross Reed 30 

9. Horizontal Warper with Swiss Attachment and Elevation Irons 36 

10. Empty Horizontal Warper (without Swiss Attachment) 43 

1 1 . Four- hundred-pin Bobbin Creel 48 

12. Swiss Beaming, Machine and Empty Reel 63 

13. 1. A warp ready for picking, in a power picking frame. 2. Finished 

warps, placed in an iron warp-rack 66 

14. 1. Edge Warping Machine and Anchor Bobbins. 2. Hand-drive 

Edge Take-off Machine 71 

15. 1. Flanged warp beam, with rod and apron. 2. Warp beam, with 

beam heads, rod and apron. 3. Quill board with wound quills. 

4. Quill board, empty. 5. Fibre box and full quills. 6. Fibre 
swift brace. 7. Endless cotton-cord swift braces. 8. Three 
crossing rods. 9. Reeding hook. 10. Cross-reed holder hook. 
11. Eye shade. 12. Winder swift tension weights. 13. Section 
spacing compas5=. 14. Section hook for sample warps. 15. Black, 
and white, strips for reed background. 16. Bone pick. 17. Doubler 
flyer guide. 18. Winder spindle with wooden head. 19. Doubler 
spindle for take-up bobbin. 20. Quiller spindle with grooved 
head. 21. Iron bracket device for stopping bobbins from winding 

too full 74 

16. High-speed, Underdrive Quiller 76 

17. Doubhng Machine 80 

18. Heavy Fancy Shaft Harness Loom 91 

19. Jacquard Silk Loom with Motor Drive % 92 

20. Skein Reel with Single Fly 93 

vii 



WINDING, WARPING AND QUILLING SILK 



CHAPTER I 



MATERIALS AND THEIR CARE 



The Treatment of the Different Materials and their Care 

Whe^ materials are received by the various departments in 
the mill, they should be immediately checked up and placed in a 
stockroom, or other suitable place that is properly equipped with 
closets, shelves and drawers, which should be plainly numbered. 
Good light is essential, but all materials should be covered and 
protected from the light when not actually .in use. A permanent 
place should be assigned for each lot, avoiding as much as possible 
the crowding together of lots that are similar in color, size or 
texture. 

A label, or stock ticket, containing detailed information, 
which varies in different mills, should be attached to a bundle of 
each lot received. This is known as the '^ original ticket," and 
should contain the following items : 



STOCK TICKET 

Dye Lot Number 

Date Sent to Dyer 

How Dyed (pure, weighted, fast, etc.) 

Weight Sent to Dyer 

Ntunber of Bundles 

Number of Skeins 

Size of the Yam 

Weight Returned from Dyer 

Date Returned from Dyer 



2_ MATERIALS AND THEIR CARE 

Each of the other bundles in the lot should have a smaller 
ticket attached, which contains the lot number, size and color. 
The original should not be removed from the lot until it is entirely 
consumed. 

It is preferable to use different colored tickets for the various 
materials, as it is then easier to distinguish them and lessens the 
liability of making costly mistakes. 

Each lot should be weighed when received, and the rolls and 
skeins counted. After comparison with the lot ticket, and being 
found to be correct, these items, and all other details, should be 
recorded in a loose-leaf book or card index, kept for this particular 
purpose, the lot passed upon by the person in charge, and placed 
in its allotted shelf or closet, properly covered, and with ticket 
facing outward. 



CHAPTER II 
WINDING PROCESSES 

Winding Machinery 

The winding machine is for winding skeins of yarn onto bob- 
bins. There are several different patterns of winding machines, 
which equipment is usually made to order to suit the require- 
ments of the work in the mill. 

Some machines are built of both wood and iron while others 
are constructed entirely of iron, with the exception of the knee- 
board, guider rail, and bobbin shelf. 

Winding machines can be made of any size and length and 
possess any number of spindles, so as to bring about desirable 
economy of floor space. 

The standard spindle is 6 inches long, but the length may vary 
according to the pattern of the machine. 

The ordinary winding machine possesses a traverse motion 
that spreads the material evenly and uniformly from side to side 
of the bobbin as it unwinds from the skein. 

A double number of spindles can be added to the machine by 
making it double-decked, with two rows of swifts on a side, one 
above, the other below. 

In using a double-decked winder, there is a saving of one-half 
the amount of floor space, with a saving in the corresponding 
expenditures for heating, lighting, attendance and power required. 
The operative can attend to twice the number of spindles in a 
given space. As the cost per spindle of a double-decked machine 
is less, there is a further saving of interest and depreciation on the 
machines themselves, and also the saving of the rental, etc., for 
the space occupied. 

There are, however, several disadvantages to a double-decked 
machine, as, for instance : 

3 



4 WINDING PROCESSES 

1. Operatives seldom care to work on them. 

2. Short operatives have a certain disadvantage, as the 
reaching and eye-strain is often tiresome. 

3. On the upper deck, the skeins run the reverse to those in 
the lower row, which makes it a difficult task to find the lost ends. 

4. The ends sticking in the skein are the cause of spindles of 
the upper deck being pulled from their bearings. 




Fig. 1. — Variable Speed Winder. 



5. The broken ends of the skeins from the upper deck are often 
wound on the bobbins of the lower deck. 

6. Waste falls more easily from the upper deck onto the lower 
bobbins, causing poor work, and damages wound materials. 

7. The tension of the skeins on the upper deck is not as uni- 
form as on the lower deck. 

My opinion is that the disadvantages materially outweigh 
the advantages. 

Winding Machine Space 

The floor space required for a winding machine depends largely 
upon the make of the machine used and the size of the swifts, as 



WINDER SWIFTS B 

the kneeboards must be extended to fit the swifts. The aisles 
between the sides and ends of the machines should measure at 
least 2 feet, and 2 feet 6 inches is preferable. 




Fig. 2. — Double-deck Winding Machine. 



Winder Swifts 

There are several patterns of swifts made and suppHed with the 
machines, those most commonly used being made of hard or soft 
wood according to the usage to which they are to be put. 

The size swifts used for wool, and raw or hard-silk winding, are 
larger than those used for organzine, tram or cotton. It may be 
here explained that hard silk is raw, or thrown, silk from which 
the natural gum has not been removed. 

Soft silk is silk from which the gum has been boiled out. 

The standard swift is made with twelve spokes, six spokes in 



6 WINDING PROCESSES 

each side of a wooden hub. The smallest and lightest swift is 
used for soft silk and artificial silk and measures 17 inches across. 
The cotton swift measures 19 inches across, and that for raw or 
hard silk, and wool, 25 inches across. 

The hub of the sWift has a pin axle on each side, to hold it in 
the bearings and brackets of the winding machine. The pin 
causes the swift to revolve readily and smoothly and balance easily. 

Swift Braces 

Braces are usually made of cotton braid or banding, and the 
best are endless and spHced so that they are entirely free from 
knots. These will give better service than knotted braces and 
are usually stronger and cleaner and do not tear the ends, as is 
often the case when the knotted brace is used. 

The endless brace does not stretch as readily, and very often 
can be washed and used over again. While these are the swift 
braces most commonly used, there are also braces fashioned of 
metal, fibre and rubber. 

Good swift braces are of the first importance if the best 
winding results are to be had. The cotton-banding swift braces 
are serviceable when new, but soon become slack at one side. To 
tighten them, the operative will give a turn round the spoke 
which pulls the spoke out of shape, and many times breaks it, and, 
in this way it does not take long for many of the swifts in a depart- 
ment to get into bad shape, with a resultant increase of waste 
and loss of product. After use on dark colors, such braces should 
not be used for fight colors without washing, as they are easily 
soiled and become sticky from handling. They also entangle 
the loose ends, and waste catches in them. 

The braces made of a single strand of cotton banding with 
loops made by making an eye spfice at each end of the band, are 
largely used. They slacken in time, and are tightened, or short- 
ened, by twisting, but, to give them firmness, a considerable strain 
must be put upon the sticks themselves. These also get dirty 
and sticky. 

Swifts made of plaited wire, and wire in other forms, are not 
infrequently used, but are, in a degree, subject to the same dif- 
ficulties as cotton braces. 



IRON TENSION WEIGHTS 7 

After long experiment, I succeeded in developing the fibre 
brace, of which a picture is presented herewith. These are made 
of very high grade fibre board, about -^ inch in thickness, and 
shaped as shown in the illustration. They are very rigid, and 
extremely durable. Since developing this brace, I have made 
many thousands of them and have used them for a number of 
years, and consider them immensely superior to other swift 
braces for the following reasons : 

1 . They can be used on all sizes of swifts in which are round- 
tapered spokes set slanting out from the hub, as the spring of the 
spokes will hold the braces tightly, and in place, though they can 
be sHd up and down freely, and they hold the skein in a true and 
good circle. Light, strong, and durable, they will not wear out, 
and do not soil and rust as do wire braces. 

2. They increase the winding output. 

3. Considerably less waste is made. 

4. They strengthen and support the spokes of the swift, pre- 
venting them from getting loose in the hub. 

5. They keep the skeins spread flat, straight and smooth, and 
in the same shape as w^hen reeled. 

6. In the long run the cost is distinctly less, for though the 
initial cost is greater, yet the wear upon them is negligible, and 
they last indefinitely. 

I would strongly urge the general adoption of this brace. 




Patent applied for. 

Fig. 3.— Fibre Swift Brace. 



Iron Tension Weights 

These are of various sizes and are used to give the necessary 
tension required for the different sizes of materials that are being 
worked. By their use, the yarn is wound on the bobbins with a 
uniform tension, being neither too hard nor too soft. 

Tension weights are made with hooks on one end so that they 



8 WINDING PROCESSES 

may be attached to the center of the hub of the swift. Four, 
eight, sixteen, and thirty-two ounce weights are generally used. 

Spindles 

There are many different makes of spindles; some are fash- 
ioned with iron-pulley heads and others are made of wood. Spindle 
bars are made of iron, with lengthwise grooves so that a steel-wire 
spring can be inserted which holds the bobbin and prevents it 
from slipping when in motion. 

The use of wooden heads has proved more satisfactory for 
winding operations on silk and the finer materials, while iron 
heads are generally used for the coarser yarns. 

Guiders 

Guiders made of glass, porcelain and enamel, in various shapes, 
are used to deliver the ends of the material that is in process of 
winding to the bobbins, and are so adjusted to the guider rail that 
they can very easily be shifted from side to side, as may be re- 
quired, so as to act in conjunction with the traverse bar. The 
motion of the machine causes the bar to move regularly from side 
to side, within the required hmits, thus distributing and spreading 
the threads evenly and uniformly onto the bobbins. 

Power and Speed for Winding Machine 

Very Uttle power is required for driving winding machinery. 
Fine and tender materials require very slow speed, while strong 
and coarse material can be run at a very much faster rate. There 
is not any fixed or standard rate of speed for winding operations. 
It has been found that slow speed will improve the winding of 
some classes of yarns, whereas strong material can be wound 
at high speed and the production correspondingly increased. 

The speed can easily be changed and regulated to suit the 
material in process of winding by shifting the belt on the step or 
cone pulley, or regulating the friction pulley. This regulates the 
drive of the shaft, and keeps the pulley wheels and bobbin spindles 
revolving at any determined speed. This is called a friction motion 



WINDING, IN GENERAL 



9 



and is highly desirable for the successful winding of silk yarns and 
other delicate materials. 

Winding, in General 

Proper winding is of the greatest importance in textile manu- 
facture, as all yarns must be wound before fabrics can be man- 
ufactured therefrom. The object is to transfer the yarns evenly 
and rapidly from the skein state to the bobbins, working with 




Fig. 4. — 1. Skein parting and dressing pole. 2. Roll, and skein, of yarn. 
3. Scale for weighing yarn. 4. Bundle of dyed silk yarn. 5. Mill 
basket, with empty bobbins. 6. Fibre mill box with wound bobbins. 



such materials as silk, artificial silk, wool, cotton and other fibres 
that are used in the weaving of plain, Jacquard, and mixed fabrics. 
Although the characteristics of the various yarns greatly differ, 
the treatment varies but little in the processes of winding, warping, 
doubUng and quilling, but sharp attention is called to the fact 
that each material requires a wide experience to handle and 
humor it, so that the proper tension may be apphed in the 
winding. 



10 WINDING PROCESSES f 

The winding of dyed soft silk is the most difficult, requiring 
not only skill, but long experience in such matters as the finding 
of lost ends, keeping the greatest number of swifts running, and 
making as little waste as possible of costly yarn. Operatives who 
have had a wide experience in the handling of raw or hard silk, 
and who, eventually, become soft-silk winders, and are thus familiar 
with the treatment of silk in its raw state and, after dyeing, are 
in a valued class by themselves. 

Given what is known as good silk, and such operatives as 
outhned above, the result in the winding room is invariably excel- 
lent. But, with inferior low-grade silk to be processed, there 
will be constant trouble, even though the operative is an expert. 
On the other hand, a careless and unskilled operative can be the 
cause of endless trouble even with the best of silk. 

Some female operatives adapt themselves very readily to 
winding, with all its peculiar and exacting details, and learn very 
quickly, becoming quite skilful in, say, from six months to a year. 
Others require two or three years to reach an effective point, and 
some never become really proficient. ■ 

In a large winding department, where there are many opera- 
tives and a great variety of sizes and colors are to be worked, the 
foreman should endeavor, as far as possible, in giving out silk to 
be wound, to select the operatives best quahfied to handle the 
different lots with the least delay. 

■ Each operative should be supphed with a box or basket, and 
clean paper to cover same, in which to place silk or other material 
to be wound. 

Upon receiving a lot of silk to be wound, and before commenc- 
ing work, the operative should check up the rolls and skeins with 
the lot ticket, and ascertain therefrom the number and description 
of bobbins to be used for the various sizes of materials to be 
worked. 

The skeins of the rolls should be separated very carefully and ij 
each skein handled by itself. Great care should be taken not to "' 
break, tear or tangle the ends while parting the skeins to find the 
starting end that is always attached to one of the tie bands. This 
end is usually located on the outside of the skein, and the skein 
must be so placed on the swift that it will unwind from the out- 



WINDING, IN GENERAL 11 

side, and in a direction away from the operative. After the skeins 
have been placed, by the operative, on the swift, and evenly 
adjusted, she then removes the tie-bands, unfastening last the one 
to which the ends of the skein have been attached, being careful 
to keep track of the position of the end that is to be wound. 

After inserting a spindle in the bobbin, she attaches this end to 
it by winding it a few times round the barrel, but she should not 
tie it. The bobbin, with its spindle, is then placed in the spindle 
bracket, and the end is passed through the porcelain guide on the 
traverse bar. "WTien the spindle is started, the thread will begin 
to unwind from the skein onto the bobbin, and the traverse bar, 
mo^dng to and fro, spreads it evenly across the width of the bobbin, 
the winding being continued until it is full. 

The silk on the bobbin should never be allowed to fill it higher 
than the circumference of the bobbin head, and, in fact, it is better 
not to fill it quite so full. 

Good strong silk will wind without much machinery stoppage. 
An ordinaiy operative can easity keep 75 to 100 skeins of soft silk 
running. An inexperienced operative can very easily damage the 
best of silk by careless and rough handling and tangling, and 
losing the cross. Such operatives keep very few skeins running. 

Then, again, there are a number of other causes for poor wind- 
ing. Silk of inferior quality, or which has been damaged in the 
throwing or dyeing operations, presents unlimited difficulties in 
the winding. It can only be wound by a skilled operative and 
even then the production is so slow that the" winding, at best, will 
be Yery costly. Never should such silk be given to an inexperi- 
enced winder as the results are invariably disastrous. 

The amount of silk an operative can wind in one working day 
depends greatly upon the skill she possesses and the quality and 
state of the silk. Under normal conditions, with good silk (say 
If dram, xf oz., organ.) a fair operative can wind about 18 
to 24 pounds in a ten-hour day. If the same operative is obliged 
to contend with inferior or damaged silk, in spite of the most care- 
ful handling, pounding, pulling, and dampening, change of ten- 
sion weights and of speed of machine, and the many little humor- 
ing devices known to good operatives, from 5 to 10 skeins is all 
that can be kept running, and 2 to 3 pounds a day produced. 



12 WINDING PROCESSES 

The general treatment in skein winding of other materials is 
about the same as for silk, although an experienced silk operative 
is not rated as a wool, cotton, or artificial silk operative, unless 
actual experience has been had. Some rapidly learn to handle 
all kinds of material, while there are any number of operatives 
now employed whose experience has been Umited to one particular 
kind of yarn. 

Be it well understood that every operative does not go about 
her work in the same way. It will be found that some are neat- 
ness personified. Cleanliness is an essential adjunct to good work, 
and it is often recognized in practice that, where the attendant 
is a person of neat appearance, better work is invariably found 
on and about the machine she is working at, as compared with 
another attendant of more untidy habits. For instance, this 
class of operatives will start their bobbins with great care, making 
sure that every end is fastened, but not tied, to a clean bobbin, 
and that each bobbin fills up evenly and is uniform in both ten- 
sion and appearance. This class also take care to tie good knots, 
keep their ends running as much as possible, and keep their work 
and their clothing free from waste. Winders of this sort are val- 
ued employees. 

There is another class of operatives who are careless and 
untidy. Their one idea seems to be to get the work off utterly 
regardless of how it should be done. Very often this kind of 
operative seems to work harder than her skilled sister, but she is a 
retarding element. With this sort of workpeople, ends are started 
on bobbins whether the latter are clean or not. Their bobbins 
are allowed to fill up on one side which leads to undesirable uneven- 
ness. They pay no attention to tension weights and so the bob- 
bins are wound irregularly, some soft, others hard. They tie 
poor knots and considerable waste is found not only in their work 
but also upon their clothing. Such operatives, needless to say, 
because of the troubles they cause, should find no place in a well- 
conducted mill. 

In the matter of knot tying, the ordinary loop knot is most 
commonly used and works very well with some materials, but 
this again is dependent upon the usage to which the yarn is to be 
put. In many winding plants the operative is called upon to tie 



WINDING, IN GENERAL 13. 

a special cross, or weaver's, knot, that does not open in the weav- 
ing operation, which sometimes happens with the loop knot 
when a difficult weave is being worked. 

The only tool a winding operative requires is a pair of special 
scissors and this should be used to cut the ends when a knot is tied, 
instead of breaking them off as is often done by careless work- 
people. 

Oil and rosin should not be used on spindle heads and pulleys 
to prevent them from sUpping, as it has been found that they do 
more harm than good. Rosin causes the spindles to become rough 
and lumpy, thereby causing them to jerk and produce end- 
breakage. Continued and persistent use of rosin causes the 
hands of the operatives to become sticky in manipulating the 
spindles. The only proper thing to use in this work is carpenter's 
chalk, as this gives the desired results and makes for cleanhness 
in the handling of materials. 

An important point for the foreman to bear in mind is the 
speed at which the spindles should be run in winding the various 
classes of materials. If the machine is running too fast for the 
particular yarn in work, the ends will be continually snapping and 
too large a proportion of bad bobbins will be the result. If run- 
ning too slow, the thread is apt to run on slack, which will cause 
soft bobbins and considerable waste. 

Still another important point is the weighting of the swifts. 
Around the hub or center of each swift a weight is loosely hung^ 
and which, if not of the right proportion or weight, will cause a 
great deal of trouble. If the swift is not weighted sufficiently, it 
will very often overrun itself, then again, if too heavih^ weighted, 
it will not run fast enough for the take-up of the bobbins. Both 
are faults which cause ends to break, and which eventually tell 
against the (Tost and production of the yarn. 

If perfect work is to be achieved, every swift should run per* 
fectly true when in its place on the frame. It must not run back 
in a contrary direction after having been once stopped. It should 
be adjusted so as to run to a dead stop. ]\Iany operatives have a 
very careless habit of throwing down ends haphazardly after they 
have tied a knot, which ends often get entangled in the swift, or 
wrapped around the spindles, filling and choking them up witk 



14 WINDING PROCESSES 

bits of fly ends and waste and so interfering with the smooth 
running of the swifts and spindles. 

i When, owing to circumstances, good winding is out of the 
question, such lots of yarns should be put through the various 
processes as cleanly as possible, but with no unnecessary waste 
of time. In most instances, if such yarns receive too much proc- 
essing they will become rough and tender and cause trouble in 
the weaving operations. 

In a plant where a large number of operatives are employed, 
loss of time and waste, caused by neglecting details such as have 
just been described, greatly increase the running cost, while if 
consideration is given them there will be a large saving of waste and 
time and, at the same time, the yarns will be in a much better 
condition when they reach the looms. 

' Sometimes, small lots are dyed for warps and ordered wound 
on a certain number of bobbins. Generally, such lots are given to 
the operative with special instructions, but in cases of this kind the 
operative very often cannot seem to get the same quantity of 
material upon each bobbin as instructed, for, in most cases, the 
matter is mere guess work on her part, and, consequently, some 
bobbins will contain more yarn than others in the lot. 

This can be overcome in a measure by following the rule given 
herewith. The operative should ascertain the number of skeins 
to the lot, divide this by the required number of bobbins needed, 
and the result will give the number of bobbins to be wound from 
each skein. 

Operatives who have not been instructed correctly as to just 
how to start the end of the yarn on the bobbin, have a most annoy- 
ing and unnecessary habit of starting the end lapped and doubled, 
with a long end dangling, which snarls and causes the end to tangle 
and snap off, instead of running off clean. When the yarn, so 
wound, is handled by the warping operative, instead of running 
off clean, breakage and snarls ensue and considerable damage is 
done. The ends intertwist causing smashes and crossed ends in 
the warp, which, in turn, form waste and cause loss of valuable 
time in the warping department. 

There are only two correct methods of starting the end in 
winding yarn on the bobbin. The first method is to hold the yarn 



DIFFERENT KINDS OF KNOTS 15 

at the extreme end on the bobbin between the thumb and fingers 
of one hand and with the other hand give it a few turns around 
the barrel of the bobbin and so start the winding. The other 
method is generally used for the finer materials. The end of the 
yarn is wetted and placed so that it will adhere to the running 
bobbin. 

By making use of either of these methods there will be no dan- 
ger of the usual snapping or breaking off towards the end of the 
unwinding operation as the yarn will run off clean from the bobbin 
from start to finish. 

Fastening or Securing the End on a Wound Bobbin 

An important point connected with winding operations and to 
which attention should be given, is to make sure that the end of 
the yarn is properly fastened on the filled up bobbin, which does 
away with the unraveUng and consequent entanglement of the 
loose end. If the end is not so fastened, considerable waste is 
sure to accumulate. Very often operatives, when fastening the 
ends on the wound bobbins, pull the end deep into the bobbin and 
break it off short. Consequently, when the bobbin is placed in 
work in the warping or quilling operation, the end cannot be found, 
thereby causing more waste and loss of time. 

The end should always be broken off in such a manner that it 
can readily be seen, and no time be lost in trying to locate it. A 
good way is to leave the end long enough to be crossed over the 
bobbin. 

Different Kinds of Knots 

Properly tied knots are of the greatest importance, and 
require the attention of all operatives. There is not enough said 
or read about knots. If there were none to be made, I believe that 
half of the time of labor, half of the machinery required, in the 
whole textile industry would be saved. Every knot to be tied 
entails the stoppage of a machine. 

The accompanying diagrams show the different kinds of knots, 
both open and closed. These are principally used in the processes 
of winding, warping, and quiUing. 



16 



WINDING PROCESSES 



Figure 1 is a '' square knot/' and used only for special pur- 
poses. 

Figure 2 is a '' draw knot," used when splicing and tying 
broken warp threads. 

Figure 3 is a '' weaver's " or " cross knot." It is the safest 
and best and should have the preference over all others, where- 
ever it can be used. It is the most solid and smooth, and also has 
the advantage of not slipping apart. 

Figure 4 is the simplest, easiest and quickest knot that can be 
made. For that reason it is the most used, but it is not a safe one 
to make on the extreme ends of threads on account of its size, and 
it also opens easily and slips apart. 




■a^,^-^^,^>ww.^-^l^^y 



^-f»^..N.5.^»^^>.vV^v^.«-^^s<^~»^^^ 






■N^-^.^^i»«.SV.-^.«t.^.-m 




^ ^^^ 



Fig. 5. — Different Kinds of Knots, Open and Closed. 

Making and Tying Knots 

All winding operatives should remember that the making and 
tying of good, clean knots is of the utmost importance. It is 
just as easy to tie a good knot as a poor one. A skilled operative 
will tie a perfect knot and use the scissors for cutting off the ends, 



m 



I 



WINDING COARSE MATERIAL 17 

which should be one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch long, and 
this in about five seconds. Other operatives are very careless in 
this branch of work and do not seem to reahze the importance 
of proper knot tying. 

Some have the very bad habit of tying snarled and stringy ends 
and breaking them off with their fingers or biting them off with 
their teeth, instead of neatly cutting them off with the scissors. 
Such knots cause all kinds of trouble in the weaving room when 
they are carelessly made in the winding, warping or quilling opera- 
tions. ^\Tien one stops to think of the large number of knots which 
are really obhgatory in processing yarns, it can readily be seen 
that perfect goods cannot be manufactured when knots are im- 
perfectly tied. 

Winding Coarse Material 

When winding coarse material for filHng, there should not be 
any knots tied in the event of the end breaking, as this would cause 
lumps that would give endless trouble in the weaving. There 
should be one continuous length of unbroken and untied threads 
upon the bobbin, whether it be full or only partly so. It is unsafe 
to lap two ends on one bobbin, as this generally causes loose and 
double ends in the quills, which, in turn, is sometimes the cause of 
ends being torn out of the warp, making costly smashes. 

Mixing in the Winding Operation 

It is very dangerous to give an operative materials of the same 
shade but of different sizes unless the sizes so differ that mixing 
will be easily detected. Giving mixed lots to operatives should be 
avoided as much as possible, but at times this cannot be avoided. 
In such cases the operative should be instructed as to the charac- 
teristics of each particular lot. 

Careless Winding Operatives 

Careless operatives will often allow the draughts from an open 
window to blow upon their work, which naturally deflects the ends 
of the material from their proper course, thereby causing defective 
work. Then again, they will carelessly drop pieces of material 



18 WINDING PROCESSES 

cut from the long knots, which often are caught by the running 
thread and carried around the bobbin, or the swifts, thereby causing 
trouble. 

Sometimes during the operation of placing the bobbins and 
spindles in the bearing brackets, the broken ends, picked from 
bobbins, will often catch and wind around the spindle bearing, 
moving it shghtly from its position and so produce defective 
work. Winding machinery should be examined frequently and 
kept up to a high state of efficiency. 

Winding Bobbin Stopper Device 

A devicB to overcome the overrunning of bobbins should be 
attached to all winding machines, but, to the writer's knowledge, 
such devices are not furnished with the machines by the builders. 

Touching on this point, the writer, many years ago, had a 
device specially made which has proved satisfactory and bene- 
ficial in winding operations on all classes of materials and which 
has been in use ever since. 

The device is made of light cast iron, similar to an ordinary shelf 
bracket, with a short slot made lengthwise in the upright part. 
In the slot is inserted a small screw or bolt so that it may be at- 
tached to the winding machine, either on its wooden or iron parts. 
This permits the adjustment of the bracket so as to fit the re- 
quired size of bobbin, which is accomplished by simply loosening 
the bracket and sHding it either up or down as the requirements 
demand. When the bobbin has received the proper amount of 
material it will touch the second half of the bracket and cause it 
to raise from the contact of the spindle pulley thereby stopping 
the bobbin. 

This device can be so arranged as to fit any make of winding 
machine and eliminates all danger of the bobbins winding too full 
and running over, thus preventing unnecessary waste of costly 
material. 

Tracing the Workmanship of the Operatives 

In a mill where there are a number of operatives and large 
quantities of material of one size and color to be worked at the 



\ 



ARTIFICIAL SILKS 19 

same time, it is very important to use a carefully-planned system 
so that the work of each operative can be accurately traced. By 
the use of this method, imperfect workmanship can be readily 
discovered, and the operatives, on succeeding operations, can be 
cautioned. 

There are a number of such systems in use. One is the pasting 
of letters or nimibers on the bobbins; another is the making use 
of different-colored bobbins for each operative. The best and 
most reliable method is, perhaps, the use of narrow strips of dif- 
ferent-colored tissue papers, about | by 2 inches, placed lengthwise 
on the empty bobbins. One end of the paper should be left out 
and fastened in the space between the spindle head and bobbin, 
thus enabling the work to be traced as long as there is any yarn on 
the bobbin. 

Artificial Silks 

The writer has had a somewhat varied and exhaustive experi- 
ence with the handling of artificial silk yarns and, therefore, is in a 
position to point out ways of overcoming the many difficulties to 
be contended with in the winding, warping and quilling of this 
commodity. Artificial silk yarn will not stand the machinery 
tension or strain as is the case with natural silk and other yarns. 
The artificial fiber should be well dried before the winding process 
is attempted. The best winding results are obtained by care- 
fully opening the skeins and spreading them loosely on dressing 
poles made with stout wooden arms or pegs ; then shake and smooth 
out the skeins by hard jerks with a stout, round and smooth 
wooden parting stick, so as to give them the proper dressing and 
parting. The parting stick should be placed in between the skein 
and be made- use of to smooth and straighten it out, instead of 
using the hands, as it requires more strength to separate the sticky 
ends than the hands can supply unaided. 

A light application of paraffine to the dressing pole, and the 
spreading of the skein and careful rubbing around the pole, will 
greatly improve the winding of sticky skeins, but the careless use 
of paraffine is apt to cause streaks in some classes of fabrics. 

In this class of winding work, the swifts should be equipped 
with straight fibre, wood, or wire braces, so as to keep the skein 



20 WINDING PROCESSES 

smooth, flat and uniform upon the swifts. The swifts should be 
kept free from waste and all should be run with the same even ten- 
sion, so that the bobbins are neither too soft nor too hard. Very 
soft bobbins cause tangled and loose ends, which lead to consider- 
able waste. Hard-wound bobbins and quills will cause streaky 
defects in the woven fabric. 

The wound bobbins should be handled in the same careful 
manner as the skeins. 

The best results in artificial silk quilling can be obtained by 
using a special quill, grooved around its entire length, and slightly 
tapered at the point. The grooved quill grips the silk more firmly 
than a smooth quill and prevents it from slipping off, thereby sav- 
ing considerable waste. Wound quills that have been stored for 
an unreasonable length of time will eventually become too soft 
for weaving purposes, owing to their drying out. 

Work on an artificial-silk warp should, whenever practicable, 
be commenced and completed the same day. An unfinished warp 
left wound upon the warp reel for twenty-four hours is thereby 
subjected to atmospheric changes and may become sagged and 
slack, making it impossible to secure a perfect and, therefore, satis- 
factory warp for weaving. 



CHAPTER III 

WARPING PROCESSES 

Various Warping Systems 

Theke are many different warping systems in use and opinions 
differ widely as to which is the best and cheapest in the long run. 
The warping process has always been an important factor in tex- 
tile manufacture, which, doubtless, has led to the establishment of 
so many different warping systems. However, the most rational 
warping system in regard to quaUty results is given herewith. 

The warps should be built as quickly as possible on horizontal 
Swiss motion machines, with the use of large bobbin creels, and 
beamed without picking as soon as the warp is completed. The 
warp should be placed on a power warp-picking frame, and the 
picking done at this machine. In this frame there is a special 
double cross picked, besides those existing in the warp, the warp 
being put through a special reed for this purpose. This makes 
possible the elimination of all imperfections and defects in the 
yarns and other troubles which arise, and so assures absolutely 
perfect warps, a great advantage when high-speed looms, weaver's 
wages, and quahty demanded, are taken into consideration. The 
saying in the craft is " a perfectly made warp is more than haK 
woven," and in no process of textile manufacturing is more skiU 
required than in the warping operation. 

Warping Machines 

There are a munber of these warping machines available and 
they are generally built to suit specific requirements. They can 
be constructed so as to make any required width or length of wai'p 
desired, and the machines are furnished with creels made of wood 
and iron, or what is known as a pipe creel, all iron, with steel or 
glass dent reed cased in a wooden frame atop of the creel. The 

21 



22 



WARPING PROCESSES 



creel can be made with any number of bobbin pins, as may be 
required, the usual number being, in practice, from 300 to 1000 
pins. Up to recent years, the Swiss machine, with a two-meter 
reel and a 300-pin creel, operated with a direct-power drive and 
regulated with step-drive pulleys, had been in widest use, but, 
with the appearance of the horizontal Swiss motion machine, which 
has an 8-yard reel, there has been a notable decrease in the use 




Fig. 6. — Swiss Sectional Warping Frame, and Creel. 



of the old Swiss machine, as the horizontal Swiss machine has 
proved more serviceable and more advantageous in other ways. 
Several reasons are given herewith to demonstrate the advan- 
tages of the horizontal machine. 

1. The operations of warping and beaming are performed on 
one machine. 

2. A larger creel and far greater number of bobbins can be 
used. 

3. Silk and cotton warps of any length and width can readily 
be built on these machines. 



WARPING MACHINES 



23 



4. The machine is run with friction power, operated with a 
tread pedal, and can be regulated to run at a steady and smooth 
speed, or a fast speed, if required. 

5. Heavy warps can be made upon these machines. 

6. They are easily handled by the operative when it is neces- 
sary to pull back and fix broken ends. 

7. Then again, the Swiss motion can be disconnected and the 
machine operated in the same manner as the plain horizontal 




Fig. 7. — Horizontal Warper, with Warp and eight-yard reel. 1. Tread 
pedal. 2, Carriage, and space reed. 3. Stave. 4. Cross reed. 5. 
Beaming drive device. 

machine, which is a decided advantage when used for making 
spaced and fancy dispositions and striped warps. 

The number of pins required is generally governed by the kind 
of warp that is to be made. Creels containing 400 to 600 pins are 
the most commonly used, and the pins should be made Ij inches 
longer than the bobbins so that they will be long enough to place 
an extra bobbin upon each pin. The all-iron pipe creel is stronger, 
and with its use all bobbins can readily be seen while in motion, 
a very important point in warping operations. 



24 WARPING PROCESSES 

The reeds used for warping are one single or double cross reed, 
with as nnany dents in each reed as there are pins on the creel, and 
one spacing reed, with as many dents to the inch as are required 
for the work to be done. There are other cross reeds that can be 
used, such as a triple or quadruple in the cross. 

Male operatives are generally employed to operate the hori- 
zontal machines, as it requires more strength to do this work than 
is usually possessed by the average woman operative, although 
women do handle these machines successfully with the help of men 
to lift the beams in and out. The constant treading of the power, 
and the Ufting of the beams and weights, and the high reaching, 
however, are very tiring. When women operatives are employed 
for this work, the assistance of a boy is given to lift the beams and 
weights and do other heavy work which the female operative 
cannot be expected to accomplish. 

The old Swiss warping machine differs from the horizontal 
Swiss warping machine in the fact that it is more easily operated. 
Steel crossing bars are placed on brackets between the cross and 
space reeds to be used for the purpose of forming a cross in each 
section, and the bars are also required to hold the cross open 
through the entire length of the section. The reel is much smaller 
and the warp is wound over the reel, but, when beaming, the warp 
is wound from under the reel, over a slow traverse or guide roller 
on the beaming machine, onto the warp beam. The measuring 
dial, being set for the required length of the warp, stops the reel 
automatically when the set length is reached. Again, in working, 
the Swiss machine the operative has no beaming or treading to do 
as the machine is driven with a friction clutch pulley and is 
usually started by means of a quick jerk of the shifter. The 
machine will then keep running at a steady speed until the shifter 
is used once more to stop it. These sudden stops cause the ends to 
slacken, a condition which is overcome by the operative turning 
the reel with the hand. 

A smaller creel is used, generally that of the 300-bobbin pin 
description. Then, again, there is considerably less reaching to 
be done as the creel and reed frame are lower than is the case on a 
horizontal machine. A dial is attached to the machine for measur- 
ing the length of the warp. This dial must be changed and set 



HOW TO ADJUST THE ELEVATION IRONS . 25 

for each different warp length, and so the machine is stopped auto- 
matically at the length of the warp. There are elevation irons on 
the warp reel that are raised or lowered as necessity demands 
when making a warp. The raising or lowering of these elevation 
irons is governed by the size of the yarn, the number of ends con- 
tained in the warp, and the width of the warp that is to be made. 
There is no set rule for setting the elevation irons and this matter 
is usually attended to by the foreman, whose experience has 
taught him to judge the height at which to set them. When 
unfamiliar warps are to be made and difficulty arises in determin- 
ing the heights at which to set the irons, the foreman or person in 
charge of this work can be guided by the following rule: 

How to Adjust the Elevation Irons 

After the dial has been set for the required length of the warp, 
and the elevation irons raised to the supposed correct height, 
30 or 40 meters of the first section upon the warp reel should 
be run, after which operation it will be readily seen whether the 
correct elevation has been obtained by observing if the width of 
the section is level. If the section tends to lean towards the right 
or left it should be pulled back on the arm and the iron raised or 
lowered until the desired elevation is obtained. 

After the correct elevation or height of the irons has been ob- 
tained, always taking measurements from their highest points, it 
is a very good plan to keep a memorandum of same, so that if that 
particular warp should be ordered made again a reference to this 
memorandum will prevent loss of time in the setting of the irons. 
Elevation irons are also known as '^ grade bars." 

Very often a warp is damaged more or less if the elevation irons 
are not set properly, as it will beam off slack on one side and tight 
on the other. This defect can usually be overcome by making 
use of very heavy tension weights and of more beaming paper 
on the slack side of the warp, but, notwithstanding these pre- 
cautions, an imperfect warp can usually be expected. 

The operation of the Swiss warping machine is very similar to 
that of the horizontal machine. The differences can easily be 
grasped by an intelligent operative in two or three days. Although 



26 WARPING PROCESSES 

female operatives are usually made use of in operating the regular 
Swiss warping machine, their helplessness in the matter of properly 
completing the warp is often apparent, but, as it is the usual cus- 
tom to assist one another, male operatives are only required 
to remove the completed warp, with the reel, to the beaming 
machine. 

Only the employment of the most highly skilled operatives 
makes perfect warps possible. Good eyesight is imperative, so 
as to make possible the rapid finding of the many fine ends and 
threads, the removing of the lumps, knots and other imperfections 
in the yarns, and also the seeing that all ends are in their respective 
places in the reeds, so that they will run straight and even and not 
snarl and tangle. Then, again, there are very difficult disposi- ' 
tions made in fancy and striped warps which require the services 
of skilled operatives to insure the proper handling of the many 
details pertaining to them, which, if overlooked, cause consider- 
able trouble in both the beaming and weaving operations. 

Beaming machines are separate machines, and are supplied 
by the builders of the warping machines. They are generally 
operated by males, as there is more or less heavy Hfting to be 
done, although, in some cases, beaming can be accompUshed by 
female operatives after the warp, wound upon the reel, has been 
fifted onto the beaming machine. 



Banking, Tying Up and Reeding a Plain or One-Colored Warp 

When instructions to make a warp have been received by the 
operative from the foreman, he should examine the warp order 
ticket to ascertain the lot number, material, and color of which 
the warp is to be made. The amount of material necessary to 
make the warp, and the number of bobbins to accomplish the 
work, should be carefully calculated, whether or not there are 
enough called for to fill the creel, for the plan and scope of the 
warp is the first thing to be considered. 

Before the bobbins are banked up, the creel and bobbin pins 
should be absolutely clean and no waste of any kind should be 
allowed to remain on the bobbin pins or in the reed of the creel. 
When everything is ready to begin work, all bobbins are placed on 



I 



I 



REEDING THE CROSS REED 27 

the bobbin pins of the creel. If the warp is to be made of one color 
and material, the bobbms are placed on the left-hand side, the 
first row facing the creel, and so worked down and up, on the rows 
of bobbin pins, to the right of the creel. If there are ends in the 
reed left from the previous warp, the new ends should be tied 
or twisted thereto. In twisting or tjdng ends, it should be borne 
in mind to have the old ends so fastened that they will remain with 
a firm tension on the ends in the reeds. If there are no old ends 
in the reed, the new ends are passed in the reed of the creel one 
by one, care being taken not to miss a dent or put two ends in a 
dent, as this will interfere with reeding the cross reed. Care 
should be taken to see that every end is in its proper place through 
the creel reed. Each row of ends is then twisted together and laid 
on a bobbin pin. After the creel is banked and reeded, the num- 
ber of bobbins on the creel should be counted, and each one placed 
in its respective position so as to make sure that the required 
number of bobbins are in the creel. The first and last end on the 
creel should be placed on the outside of the first and last dent of the 
reed, which will leave an empty dent on each side of the creel. 
This will give the operative a better view of the outside ends, and 
it can be more readily seen when the ends break out while the 
machine is in operation. 

A background of either paper or cloth, black or white, whichever 
is best suited for the warp, arranged so that the ends can be dis- 
tinctly seen when breaking, or dropping out of the reed, while the 
machine is in motion, is very necessary. All creels should have the 
number of bobbins marked on the reed frame of the creel over the 
top of each row of pins, starting with the first row facing the creel 
on the left and adding each individual row of pins to the next on 
the right and so on, until the last row of pins will have the total 
number of bobbin pins on the creel. This will save time and 
trouble in counting the bobbins while banking or tying up. 

Reeding the Cross Reed 

The cross reed is composed of a certain number of dents and 
contains an even number in the reed. A single cross reed has one 
dent open and the next partly closed, each open dent being fol- 
lowed by a partly closed one the whole length of the reed, which 



28 WARPING PROCESSES 

forms the shed of the ends in the reed so as to make a cross. This 
also appUes to double, triple and quadruple cross reeds, although 
a single reed can be used for either one, but it will be a different 
operation. Reeding double, triple or quadruple ends in a single 
dent in this way, it will be very difficult to see any that are mis- 
placed, broken or run out. 

Before reeding, a strip of stiff paper, either black or white, 
about the length of the cross reed and about 2^ inches wide, with 
rounded corners, should be placed upon it. This will partly cover 
the dents of the reed and will serve as a background, so that the 
ends may be seen more distinctly, and to also hold them in place 
when being reeded. 

The bottom of the cross reed, during the reeding operation, 
should be held close up to the back of the glass reed on the creel 
top, and should slant backwards and upwards at a convenient 
angle. The lower edge should rest on the frame of the creel reed 
and the upper edge be held in its slanting position by a light wire 
hook which also hooks over the top of the glass reed, and it can 
thus be easily slid along as the reeding proceeds. The reed should 
be placed on the right-hand corner facing the back of the creel. 
If the creel is too high for the operative to reach the reed, a plat- 
form to stand upon should be furnished for this purpose. The 
ends of the first row should be drawn over the reed with the left 
hand, the. right hand holding a warper's reed hook, which should 
be passed through each dent so as to draw each end through from 
the bottom side of the reed and through its respective dent. After 
the ends of each row are drawn through, they should be knotted 
to prevent them from slipping out of the reed. This operation 
should be done by sliding the reed to the left from one row to the 
other until all ends on the creel are reeded. After all ends are 
reeded, the cross reed is carefully removed from the creel and 
placed in the reed frame on the carriage of the warping machine, 
and the knotted ends are then drawn out far enough to hang over 
the top of the cross reed and so are ready for space reeding. 

The space reed is somewhat different from the creel and cross 
reeds, as it is more compact, has finer dents and is used to deter- 
mine the width of the section. The ends in each dent are governed 
by the width of the warp. 



« 



TO REED THE SPACE REED 29 

The number of dents in a spacing reed varies. It is especially 
pointed out that, when warping, the same counts or dents of reeds 
used for weaving are not necessarily employed. It largely de- 
pends upon the yarns, and the fabric that is being made. Gen- 
erally speaking, a 30-dent reed can readily be used for most warps. 

To find the number of ends that each dent should contain, 
the following rule will be found to work out satisfactorily: The 
total number of ends in the warp should be divided by the width 
of the warp. This result will give the number of ends to the inch 
in the warp. This quotient is then divided by the number of 
dents in the reed, which result will give the number of ends to be 
reeded in each dent. For example, a warp containing 4640 ends 
— width 29 inches, 30-dent reed used. 

4640-^29 inches = 160 ends per inch 
160^10 inches = 5 ends and 10 over. 

In this case it will be seen that the warp will be reeded first 
two dents, 5 ends each, then every third dent 6 ends, and repeatmg 
in this manner until all the ends are reeded. 

To Reed the Space Reed 

A strip of stiff paper, either light or dark, of about 2 inches in 
width and the full length of the space reed, with rounded corners, is 
used. This strip of paper, which is used for a background, is 
placed upon the top of the space reed, which is held in the left 
hand at right angles, and at the bottom of the cross reed. A 
number of ends are taken in the same hand and the number for 
ends to be placed in each dent are counted by means of a reed 
hook which is held in the right hand, and by which the ends are 
pulled through the dents. Great care should be taken to place 
each end in its proper dent. After the spacing reed is reeded it is 
returned to its place on the carriage with all the ends tied in one 
knot. 

How to Ascertain the Startmg Mark of the First Section 

To ascertain the starting mark of the first section, so as to reel 
the warp on the center of the reel, where there is more than one 



30 



WARPING PROCESSES 






SECTION SPACE REED 




lllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll 




SINGLE CROSS REED 



I. 



II 
II 



II 
II 



: 



; 



: 



DOUBLE CROSS REED 




TRIPLE CROSS REED 
Fig. 8. 



4 J 



PREPARING THE FIRST SECTION TO WIND ON THE REEL 31 

size of beam used, it will be necessary, first of all, to know the size 
and length of the beam that the warp is to be beamed over, so as to 
beam the warp on the center of the beam. The beam is placed in 
the proper device on the warping machine and the exact center of 
the beam is marked. The reel of the warping machine is then 
turned so that the slat containing the row of pins faces the beam. 
The mark on the center of the beam — being the center of the 
imaginary warp — should be transferred to the slat containing the 
row of pins. The reel is then turned back to its original position 
and the mark which corresponds with the center of the beam serves 
as the guide to place the warp on the reel. It should be under- 
stood that whatever width the warp is to be made, one-half of the 
warp will be on each side of this center mark. For example, take 
a 24-inch warp. Measure 12| inches from the center mark of 
the warp, allowing J inch more for contraction in the width of 
the warp, and from this point start the first section. 

In making warps, it is sometimes best to make them a trifle 
wider than the order calls for but never in any case should they be 
narrower. 

Preparing the First Section to Wind on the Reel 

This particular section should be passed under the first guide 
roller and over the upper second guide roller, and the knotted ends 
hooked on the pin of the slat nearest to the starting mark. This 
will hold the section in place while the cross is being made in the 
section. To make the cross, the section is raised with the left 
hand so that one-half of the number of ends forms the upper shed 
at the cross reed; the cross rod is then passed through the shed, 
so securing this half of the cross with one of the cross sticks that 
are on the carriage between the section rollers and reed. The reel 
is then shghtly moved so as to tighten the slackened ends of the 
section, and the section pressed down with the left hand so as to 
form the lower shed. The other cross rod is now passed through 
the shed as before so as to secure it with the other cross stick. The 
ends should be examined closely to ascertain if they are properly 
crossed. If this be the case, the ends will be one over and one 
under, on either one of the cross sticks, throughout the warp. 



32 WARPING PROCESSES 

Two lease cords, long enough to reach over the width of the 
reel, are then tied on the right side facing the reel, say about half a 
yard above the slat with the pins and passed through the cross of 
the section under the first or smaller guide roller, the reel being 
sufficiently moved so as to permit the tying of the other end of 
the lease cord, which should be passed through the cross of the 
section, and so on to the left side facing the reel. 

To Set the Measuring Dial 

After this is done, the movement of the measuring dial should 
be tried. To accomplish this, the dial is turned so as to ascertain 
in which direction the dial moves and so mark the correct place on 
the teeth. The dial is then loosened and sHd out, which enables 
it to be turned either back or forth as required. 

A chalk mark should be made on the dial between two of the 
teeth, which answers the purpose of a starting mark for measuring 
the length of the warp. Usually, the circumference of the reel 
measures 8 yards. The distance from one slat of the reel to 
another will measure half a yard. By turning the reel completely 
around, the teeth of the dial will be so moved as to pass the 
starting mark, consequently every tooth of the measuring dial 
will indicate 8 yards upon the warp reel. 

To set the dial for a certain number of yards, the number of 
yards should be divided by eight and the result will designate the 
number of teeth to be counted from the starting mark of the dial. 
For instance, a warp is to be made 120 yards long. Dividing 120 
yards by 8 gives as a result 15. Therefore, fifteen teeth from the 
chalked starting point will be the starting mark for this particular 
warp. 

If the warp is to be made less than 8 yards, the number of 
yards should equal twice the number of slats, each slat signifying 
one-half yard; the required length is thus obtained and the same 
process will work out for cuts and cut-off marks. 

The dial should be so set as to cause the bell to ring when the 
last 8 yards of the section are about to be finished. This 
method should be tried out a few times so as to make sure that it 
works correctly. By setting the dial in this manner, the operative 



POWER-DRIVING DEVICES 33 

will be warned to watch for the cut-off marks. The dial should be 
examined very carefully before starting the section, and also before 
cutting the finished section, so as to make sure that it is set right 
and has stopped at the correct mark. 

Power-driving Devices 

The driving connections are arranged so as to run the beaming 
direct from the main shaft; but the reel is driven by means of 
the two grooved pulleys and one friction pulley on the right side of 
the reel, and is controlled by means of the treadle to start and stop 
the reel. 

Winding the First Section on the Reel 

Before starting to wind the section upon the reel, the operative 
should nx)te that the measuring dial is set correctly and that all 
ends are in their proper places in all the reeds, as well as in all the 
crosses. The treadle should be used to start the reel, which must 
run very slowly at first. Close watch should be kept on the ends 
at the creel and cross, so that if a break occurs, or an end drops 
out, these things will be immediately noted. A good way to 
detect breakage is to place the left hand lightly, and in a flat 
position, over the section, as in this way the hand will feel the slack 
and tight ends, and thus the ends that break out will be easily 
detected. Broken ends, as well as those which have dropped out, 
can also be readily detected by the empty dents at the cross reed. 

When such droppage occurs, the ends should be passed through 
the proper dents and then fastened to the ends on the carriage 
wire made for that purpose. The missing ends should be traced 
through the space reed and the section separated with the small 
wooden pins that are placed on the carriage for this use. The 
next step is to wind the section on the hand and at the same time 
it should be pulled back. This operation should be repeated until 
the missing ends are found. The broken ends should then be 
tied together and slowly run back with the section. Great care 
should be taken in this operation as well as in the notation of the 
cut marks. 

If at any time the section should be run past the marks, it will 
be necessary to carefully pull it back through the space reed. The 



34 WARPING PROCESSES 

section should be wound upon the arm, or a large bobbin, until the 
marking place appears. The cut marks should then be put in 
their proper places and the section run back upon the reel. In case 
the section should happen to run past the cut-off mark it will be 
quite necessary to make two sets of crosses and to have the sec- 
tion pulled through the cross bars and reed. When the section 
is so run back, and reaches the required cut-off place, the lease cord 
should be passed in the crosses, the section cut, and a knot tied 
in both ends. The ends should be secured by looping the knotted 
ends through the finished section. After the dial is set, the end 
of the section remaining on the arm should be hooked on the pin; 
the lease cord should then be put through the crosses and the sec- 
tion may be run off the arm and onto the reel. Accurate manipu- 
lation in this operation is assured if the operative has proper 
assistance. 

The first and second sections should be run very slowly, for 
the very good reason that the operative has to contend with many 
important and distinct operations. The skilled operative will 
pick the large lumps, knotted waste, soft and split ends, " cater- 
pillars," " sleepers," double ends, and other imperfections from the 
warp. It is usually the case that when bobbins are full they do 
not run very smoothly at the start. Then there are times when 
the warp requires more than one cross at each end, although usually 
one cross is sufficient, which necessitates the watching of the dial 
very closely so that the reel may be stopped when extra cross and 
cut marks are to be made. When the section is completed to the 
last yard, a lease cord and a cross should be secured in the same 
manner as the first cross. The reel should then be moved to the 
cut-off marks and the section cut off. A knot should be tied in 
both ends of the section leaving knotted ends about 2 inches in 
length. The section may now be fastened by pushing half of the 
knotted ends through it, for, by this operation, the other half of 
the ends will remain on the outside of the section. 

The Second Section of the Warp 

When the first section is finished, the width should be measured 
before the second section is commenced. Having found the width 



THE SECOND SECTION OF THE WARP 35 

of the section, the compass or ruler should be used to space the 
width of the warp according to the number of sections required. 
If this calculation proves correct the operative may continue 
making the warp, but, if it is incorrect, it will be necessary to 
change again the reeding of the section in the space reed, so that 
the correct width of the warp may be arrived at. 

The mark of the next section, which should be the width of 
the section on the shding board, is next placed beside the carriage, 
which, in turn, is moved to the new mark. A compass has proved 
to have been, by long years of experience, a very handy adjunct 
for this space work. The cross being made and the dial set, work 
may proceed on the section. When this section is -finished", if, by 
chance, the sections are too close together, they should be sepa- 
rated by running a pointed bone pick between them. If the work 
so far accomphshed is satisfactory in every detail, work on the 
balance of the warp may be proceeded with until it is completed 
and on the reel. 

Some unskilled operatives have the bad habit of leaving a small 
space between each section when engaged in the setting operation. 
To cover the space, this class of operatives adopts the questionable 
practice of pushing and sliding together the ends as they are wound 
and finished on the reel. It cannot be urged too strongly that this 
is the wrong method to pursue, for all kinds of warps. It injures 
the silk, causes the ends to roll and twist, and thus disturbs the 
whole section. Again, when beaming the warp, the sections are 
often not sufficiently closed. To cover this bad workmanship, 
the operative, in his efforts to bring these sections together, usually 
adopts the very bad system of hammering and pounding the warp 
with the fists. Such methods should never be used by the efficient 
operative. It is far better to have the sections a trifle too close, 
and separate them by running the picking bone between the sec- 
tions, which should be placed as near as possible to their correct 
mark. When heavy and long warps are being constructed with 
the use of coarse size yarns, such spaces, as referred to above, 
often occur, but almost invariably these defects can be charged to 
inferior workmanship. 

In case there is any danger of the warp becoming too wide by 
cutting down into many sections (due to working with a scant lot 



36 



WARPING PROCESSES 



of material and with a small number of bobbins), it would be well 
to plan it out before reeding, and to have the space reed stitched 
narrower than would be done for a full creel and a greater number 
of bobbins. If this course is carefully pursued, it will not be neces- 
sary to push, slide, nor pound the sections together, providing 
good judgment is used regarding the proper tension weights and 
the amount of beaming paper that is required when beaming the 
warp. To overcome these difficulties, I would strongly advise 
the use of the Swiss motion machine. 




Fig. 9. — Horizontal Warper with Swiss Attachment and Elevation Irons. 



Beaming Warps 

When the warp is completed, the lease cords should be cut from 
the reel and a knot tied on each end of them. The reel should 
then be turned until the knots of the sections face the beaming 
attachments. The beam should be hfted into its place and the 
reel steadied by the emplacement of one tension strap. Next, the 
beam apron and rod, which are attached to the beam, should be 



BEAMING WARPS 37 

held firmly by the operative and the work commenced of tying the 
section to the apron so that all will be in readiness to wind the warp 
upon the beam. The warp may be tightened on the beam by 
sHghtly turning the pulley with the hand. When the warp is 
ready to be beamed, a sheet of beaming paper should invariably 
be placed on the beam under the warp. 

It often so happens that, during the operation of tying the 
sections on the apron of the beam, they have a tendency to open 
and spread apart. To remedy this defect the first necesssry oper- 
ation is to move the sections back to their original position; this 
being accompHshed, a sheet of beaming paper that has been tightly 
rolled should be held high on the open sections by the operative. 
The beaming operation is then continued with the roll of paper 
resting on the warp so that it is carried down to the beam, the roll 
of paper being then drawn up to the place from whence the opera- 
tion was started. This operation should be repeated until the 
sections are closed and in their original positions. 

For the emplacement of piecing bobbins, which are used for 
tying the lost and broken ends in beaming operations, a rod or 
pin rail should be placed across the warp and beam. 

The beaming of the warp should then be continued very slowly, 
one or two turns around the beam and paper being sufficient, the 
treadle being used to start the operation. The second tension 
strap, with weights enough to tightly beam the warp, is then 
put on. 

Attention is called at this point to the fact that the successful 
carrying out of this operation depends upon the nature of the warp, 
and as warps are constructed of many different sizes of yarns, and 
contain a varying nimiber of ends, good judgment is needed. 

Another point is that, when the operative is beaming a warp, 
if there is any slackness, it should be immediately remedied, as in 
such a case the warp will sag and beam loose on the edges. On the 
other hand if the warp beams too tight a number of ends will 
surely break from it. These defects may be obviated in either 
case by the addition of weights or the removal of same from the 
tension straps. 

The careful operative invariably attaches to the machine a 
sheet of cloth or paper, which may be either white or black, be- 



38 WARPING PROCESSES 

tween the warp and beam, which gives an excellent background 
when she is engaged in picking and cleaning the warp threads. 
When the warp is nearing completion, great care should be taken 
to note the short ends. If such be prevalent they should be 
broken about a half yard or so from the cross and tied to the 
piecing bobbins, after which the beaming operation may be suc- 
cessfully continued. Short ends should be found and pieced out. 
If long ends and " ringers " are encountered they should be broken 
and tied in their respective places at the cross. After all the short 
and long ends are tied, the reel should be turned slowly and care- 
fully to the end of the warp. The sections should be taken from the 
pins, grouped together and tied with a slip knot, and wound on 
the beam. The warping beam should be carefully wrapped in 
paper and fastened at each end and in the center. The required 
piecing bobbins should be attached to the outside of the wrapped 
beam so that, when delivered to the loom, the warp will be com- 
plete in every detail. 

To Make Disposition Warps, Fancy Stripes, and Ombres, on the 
Horizontal Machine Without Using Swiss Motion 

In the first place, a beginner should not undertake the con- 
struction of any description of disposition warp, as a wide and 
varied experience is absolutely necessary for this class of work, 
therefore, a careful study of the following remarks on this branch 
of warping is recommended to the beginner. Skilled operatives 
thoroughly understand that, when a disposition warp is in the 
loom, the disposition and pattern is read from left to right, facing 
the lay and reed of the loom. But, when banking and tying up 
for a warp on the creel, the disposition is read backwards, facing 
the front of the creel. 

In this operation, the first bobbin and end is placed on the lower 
right-hand bobbin pin, which, in turn, will be the last end of the 
warp when it is completed for the loom. The operative should 
continue to bank up toward the left side of the creel, reading and 
making the wa,rp backwards. After the creel is banked, and the 
ends reeded and properly crossed, the first section should be placed 
on the right side of the reel, facing it. If the pattern requires as 



PROPER NUMBER OF BOBBINS 39 

many ends as can be banked on the creel, or if the sections can be 
completed without reversing, or if it is possible to reverse the reed 
so that it is bottom side up for every other section, and if again the 
warp can be run in this manner, the sections can be placed next to 
each other, which operation can be continued indefinitely. 

It will be readily seen that this construction is similar to that 
applied in making a plain warp, but if the warp to be constructed 
demands a number of spaces, the first part of the pattern should 
be banked, tied and wound on the reel, after which the width of 
that particular part of the section should be measured and spaced 
on the reel as many times as it will repeat in the pattern of the 
warp. After the first section is completed on the reel, the long 
lease cord should not be used for the cross in the following section, 
a separate cord being used for each separate cross. 

After the first part of the space warped is on the reel and 
complete, the next parts of the pattern should be banked and tied, 
and then placed in the spaces planned for them. After the warp 
is built on the reel and beamed off to the cross, a long lease cord 
should be passed through all the sections before the small separate 
cross cords are cut out. This method is also appHed to the first 
cross in the warp, if so required. 

Proper Number of Bobbins to Wind for a Warp 

In preparing a warp, an important point to be kept in mind 
is the winding of the yarn on just the proper number of bobbins 
that will best suit the requirements of work, which knowledge 
enables the operative to finish the warp in the shortest possible 
time. The abihty to do this handily forms part of the equipment 
of the skilled operative and is only acquired by a long and varied 
experience in the warping branch. The busy mill owner must 
necessarily depend on the judgment of such operative and gener- 
ally does so. 

To make this entirely plain, we will take an example. For 
instance, should the bank or creel contain 600 bobbin pins, it is, 
of course, the best and quickest way for the operative to have 
what is termed " a full bank," and so keep repeating right along 
with the use of these 600 bobbins and ends until the desired num- 



40 WARPING PROCESSES 

ber has been obtained for the warp. This method answers admir- 
ably in cases where there is an unhmited supply of yarn with which 
to work, and as is usually the case in mills where one color warps, 
for large orders, are principally used. But when the operative is 
called upon to use a variety of colors, in constructing a warp for 
fancy fabrics, it is absolutely necessary to arrange to have a single 
skein divided among a number of bobbins, so that the operative's 
bank or creel may be kept as full as possible, and at the same time 
be of sufficient length to run out the warps. No hard and fast 
rule can be laid down for the best course to pursue in the opera- 
tion just touched on, as each mill requires different methods and 
so the matter once more becomes a question of experience and 
judgment. 

The warper foreman should see to it, very carefully, that the 
proper number of bobbins is wound for the work in hand, for 
carelessness in this respect may cause the loss of many hours of 
time. Towards the end of the work on a warp, when the bobbins 
are running out, it becomes necessary to reduce, or cut down, the' 
number of bobbins, as, otherwise, ends will be running out every- 
where, and great trouble and loss of time will result. The yarn 
from these almost empty bobbins will often have to be back- 
wound, or concentrated, on a smaller number, so as to give suf- 
ficient length to finish the warp. In doing this, it should be seen 
that the proper number of bobbins is kept out for piecing, and for 
tying any other threads that may run out before the section is 
completed. Threads that are carelessly allowed to run out, and 
which are found missing when beaming the warp, have then to be 
replaced, with not only the attendant trouble and loss of time, 
but, also, these threads will have a different tension, and so may 
make streakiness in the warp. 

Making Warps on the Horizontal, or All-Swiss Motion Machines 

It should be kept in mind that all warps are made and started 
by banking and tying upon the left-hand top-corner pin facing the 
creel, and working towards the right of the creel, reading the order 
or disposition from the beginning as it develops. When the creel 
is banked and the section ends placed in the reed, the elevation 



ADVANTAGE OF THE HORIZONTAL MACHINE 41 

irons should be set and regulated to the height required for the 
warp. After the irons are elevated, the dial set for the length of 
the warp, and everything in readiness to start, the first section 
should be placed on the left side of the reel, facing it, and at the 
lowest point of the elevation irons. 

It should be understood that very light (weight) and short 
warps do not require the use of the elevation irons, but it is entirely 
different when making heavy (weight) and long warps, as these 
cannot be made perfectly without the proper regulating and 
setting of the elevation irons. 

Every revolution of the reel will then cause the worm screw to 
move the carriage, so as to wind and traverse the section to the left 
on the elevation irons when the machine is in motion. The 
longer the sections the more they will spread on the elevation irons, 
and, in due course, the sections following will traverse and spread 
each over the other. This treatment will give the warp the ap- 
pearance of being built higher on one side than on the other; 
but when the warp is completed on the reel it will be level across 
the width, and will taper at the finished side. The beaming device 
should be so arranged as to correctly traverse the warp back to 
the center of the beam. 

The Advantage of the Horizontal Plain Direct Warping Machine 
Over the Horizontal Swiss Motion Machine 

The advantages obtained with the use of the horizontal direct- 
warping machine depend largely upon the circumstances under 
which the warp is to be constructed. To become a skilled opera- 
tive in this branch of warping, long experience and good judgment 
are essential. It is not to be expected that all kinds of warps can 
be perfectly made on the horizontal plain machine. A warp 
calling for a yarn of fine size or count, with not too great a number 
of ends to the inch, and a hmited length of yardage (in fact, all 
light warps), can be made, perhaps, more perfectly and certainly 
more easily on the horizontal machine than on that with the Swiss- 
motion attachment. The same rule apphes also to warps con- 
structed with the use of coarse yarns. Disposition warps are read 
and banked on the creel in direct reverse to methods used with the 



42 WARPING PROCESSES 

Swiss motion machine. This often proves advantageous, as the 
sections can be spaced off and placed on the creel as desired by 
the operative, which means a saving of considerable time in tying 
up the ends. 

Much unnecessary time is consumed in tying up ends for 
repeated sections on a machine with the Swiss motion. The 
operative should face the reel as the warp is wound on the reel and 
when the cross is made, the lease cords should be drawn towards 
the operative. The clock dial is on the left-hand side of the oper- 
ative in plain sight and so gives no excuse for time wastage or 
mistakes. 

It is certainly unreasonable to expect the operatives to under- 
take the construction of extraordinarily long and heavy warps and 
eipect them to turn out perfect work, as only a limited length of 
warp and weight can be perfectly made without section marks, 
and skilled operatives must use good sound judgment to avoid 
such defects. It can be readily seen that the longer a heavy warp 
is made, the higher it will pile up, thereby making the section 
curved instead of lying flat. Naturally, the ends of the side of 
the section are much shorter and, therefore, are bound to beam off 
tight, thus stretching them out of their natural size, and, as the 
ends in the center are more or less slack, section marks in the 
woven fabrics are often the result of this defective work. 

Miscalculations are easily made in constructing a warp of this 
djescription, especially when the limit of the length, weight, and 
width of the warp, and the size of the material, are overlooked. 
Fabrics woven from warps of this description are subject to section 
marks, tight and loose ends, and other defects. One convincing 
proof is the comparison of a 2- or 3-yard reel with an 8- or 10- 
yard reel and the construction of the same kind of warp upon 
both. Another is to unwind a few yards of a heavy warp that 
has been made on a plain and straight-motion warp machine 
with light-tension weight. It will then be readily seen that on 
one side of the warp, or between each one of its sections, there will 
be a tendency to slide or slacken, a condition which should not 
exist in a perfectly made warp. 



SOME OF THE ADVANTAGES GAINED 



43 



Some of the Advantages Gained on the Horizontal with the 

Swiss Motion Attachment 

Perfect warps can be made with the use of Swiss motion ma- 
chines regardless of any size or length, although it must be said 
that considerable skill and judgment is necessary to achieve such 
results. All disposition and plain patterns are read and banked 




Fig. 10. — Empty Hcrizontal Warper (without Swiss Attachment). 

from the beginning. The ends are banked on the creel from the 
left top pin working towards the right of the creel, which is just 
the reverse of the workings of the plain horizontal machine, for 
fancy patterns. 

The sections, when placed upon the reel, move from left to 
right, and this traverse movement on the Swiss machine will 
overcome all lapped sections and prevent section marks, defects 



44 WARPING PROCESSES 

largely due to inaccurate spacing and by omitting the proper 
treatment required for this class of warping when accomplished 
on the plain horizontal machine. It is not necessary to go into 
details and describe a variety of limited warps that can be con- 
structed on the plain horizontal machine, as this knowledge is 
best attained by experience and is largely governed by the kind of 
fabrics to be woven from the warp. 

Valuable Points in Warping Operations 

The foreman of a warping room should never give verbal 
orders to the operatives under him for the construction of a warp, 
as such a course very often leads to misunderstandings which, in 
turn, bring about troublesome and costly mistakes. The intricate 
and necessary details met with in warping operations fairly de- 
mand that all orders to the operatives should be plainly written. 
When the operative is given the warp order ticket and does not 
seemingly understand the details called for in the making of the 
warp, he should immediately ask the foreman to make these points 
perfectly clear, otherwise he assumes the responsibility, and must 
account for mistakes which may occur in his work. 

Generally speaking, and whenever possible, the operatives 
should obtain all orders for warps in writing, to avoid useless 
arguments and disputes, and should furthermore insist upon being 
furnished with a lot ticket with each lot of yarns given for the 
work, which, in turn, should be checked up to see that it corre- 
sponds with the lot number of the warp ticket and in other essential 
details. 

In warping operations, when changing from silk to cotton or 
vice versa, the operative should never twist or tie the new ends 
to those remaining on the creel, they should be cut out and reeded 
anew. Otherwise, trouble is bound to result, as the ends and 
knots will twist and tangle and break out when drawn through the 
creel reed. 

The operative should never attempt to work with slack ends, 
as it is impossible to accomplish the right sort of work without 
having a strong tension on the ends. 

Before starting to build the warp on the reel, the operative 



DISPOSITION WARPS 45 

should be sure that all bobbins that are designed to go into the 
warp are in their proper places on the creel, and in the reeds and 
cross. 

In constructing disposition warps, it is not only customary, but 
advisable, to have another operative assist in counting the ends of 
each color and checking off, so as to ascertain that each end is 
correctly placed. 

In making some classes of warps, it is a dangerous practice to 
tie up fuU bobbins on one side of the creel and place partly empty 
bobbins, or what are commonly known as ''skinners" on the other 
side; such work is apt to cause streaky warps. It is best in all 
cases to mix the bobbins evenly over the creel and on both sides. 
Then, again if the bobbins are wound by different operatives, with 
the result that some are wound hard and others soft, streaky 
warps mil again ensue, especially so if the bobbins are not properly 
mixed on the creel. 

Disposition Warps 

When making plain or disposition warps, the operative should 
always use an even number of ends, providing the pattern permits 
of this procedure. If an odd number of ends are used the cross 
must be taken the reverse each time ; that is to say, the first sec- 
tion up and down, and the next section down and up, otherwise 
there will be one end in the wrong place at the cross and so re- 
peated in every section of the warp. These are commonly called 
'' flats." 

Unfinished Sections 

A section should never be left unfinished by the operative over 
night, if possible, or for any unnecessary length of time during the 
day, as there is always danger of the ends slackening and the 
vibration of the mill cutting out ends at the reeds both of which 
happenings invariably cause considerable trouble and often dam- 
age to the warp. 

Lost Ends in the Warp 

To overcome and prevent the mishap of ends unaccountably 
lost in the warp, occurrences often caused by a single end not 
running properly with the rest of the ends (commonly called 



46 WARPING PROCESSES 

" sleepers ")> or should the first and last ends of the section break 
or run out and not be noted by the operative in time, the method 
of rubbing the palm of the hand carefully and frequently over the 
section, when it is in motion, tends to dislodge such loose ends 
and, at the same time, gives the operative a better opportunity of 
watching the first and last ends, to prevent the occurrence of 
flats and lost ends. 

The Matter of Available Yams 

When there is but sufficient yarn on hand to make a single 
warp, entirely different methods are pursued for making warps 
than would be the case if there were sufficient yarns to make sev- 
eral warps. The handling largely depends upon the yarns, yarn 
sizes, number of ends contained in the warp, and the length of the 
warp to be made, all of this knowledge being necessary to ascer- 
tain the number of bobbins needed, and the quantity of yarn 
needed for winding operations, which knowledge of requirements 
will greatly minimize the reducing of the ends. 

When it becomes necessary to reduce the number of bobbins, 
care should be taken by the operative to maintain an even number 
of ends and still have enough to tie in place of those which run out 
in the next section. If by chance the bobbins should run out, 
leaving none to tie in their place, the yarn on several of the fullest 
bobbins should be transferred to others in order to obtain enough 
bolDbins to finish the section. This operation may be repeated 
until the warp is completed. 

The Creel 

There are many different styles and makes of warp creels. 
This is evidently due to the number of kinds of fabrics manufac- 
tured and a proper selection is, therefore, a very important con- 
sideration in the matter of warping. The most objectionable 
feature about most creels is their clumsy construction. The 
wooden rails running crosswise on some hide several rows of bob- 
bins, and the failure to see these many times causes the ends to 
run out without being noticed. Yarn is wasted and smashes 
occur, in addition to which, time is lost. The writer has had 



THE CREEL 47 

considerable experience with this trouble, and earnestly advises 
dU mill men in similar positions to adopt his policy of using the so- 
called pipe creel. This is constructed of an all-iron straight frame 
of the required size, from 300 to 600 pins, standing upright on 
rollers and portable. All bobbin pins are 1 J inch longer than the 
bobbin, and every pin is j[urnished with resistant porcelain but- 
tons. With this style of creel every bobbin can be seen plainly. 
This is a very important factor in high-speed warping, as ends or 
bobbins may run off when in motion. It is also an advantage to 
have the number of bobbin pins stamped in plain figures on the 
creel reed frame at the top of each row, and carried out to the full 
number of pins on the entire creel. This is an advantage, too, in 
saving time and lessening the Hability of mistakes in counting 
bobbins, as the number of bobbins and ends required will always 
be in plain sight. 

The floor space a creel occupies is usually too small. In some 
cases it does not make much difference, but, as a rule, it is poor 
pohcy to crowd the creels too close. Neither should it be too far 
from the cross reed. Either fault will cause defects. If the creel 
stands too close, the friction caused by the rubbing of the ends on 
the outside reed bars of the creel, and on the reed blades of the 
reed at the same time, will be too great; on the other hand, 
if the creel is too far away, the distance will be too great for the 
operative to see the ends plainly, and time will be lost in going 
back and forth to repair the ends and replace the bobbins. 

The distance of a creel should be from 4^ to 6 feet from the 
cross reed. Naturally the space varies according to the size of 
the creel. The more bobbin pins there are on a creel, the wider 
and higher it will be; the wider a creel is and the narrower the 
section of a warp is to be made, the more friction there will be on 
the outside ends when they are in motion. This is a trifling defect 
that cannot be entirely overcome, owing to the shape of the sec- 
tion. The fact that this is so wide at the creel and so narrow at the 
cross and space reeds, causes the outside ends to rub against the 
creel reed bars, and cross and space reed blades, more than the 
ends running from the center of the creel. But it must ])e borne 
in mind that for this reason the creel should be moved and kept 
in the center of each section at all times. If the creel stands con- 



48 



WARPING PROCESSES 



siderably more on one side than the other, there will be more fric- 
tion on one side, and section marks, and streaky defects in some 
fabrics of delicate plain warp effect, can, therefore, be traced to 
too much rubbing of the warp ends on one side of the creel. In 
such cases, if the warp did not receive the proper treatment, or if 
the tension weights were not right, nor the beaming paper prop- 
erly applied, and if slack and tight ends appear from the creel, the 
use of proper tension weights and plenty of beaming paper will 
offset these defects so that they will not be discovered. The 




Fig. 11. — Four-hundred-pin Bobbin Creel. 

same is true of such a small technical point as a bobbin running 
almost empty on one side of the creel while a full one is running 
on the other side. These bobbins will pull and run off with a 
different tension, but this is only a trifling defect that cannot be 
overcome. It will disappear with good tight beaming. 

For some classes of warping it is not necessary to be too exact 
in the matter of room and space. The creel can be stationed in 
one place and not moved, provided there is sufficient space to 
work around it conveniently. 



THE BRAKE STRAP 49 

The Difference Between a Creel Containing a Full Set of FuU 
Bobbins, and One Containing Partly Full Bobbins 

When operations are commenced by the operative on the con- 
struction of a warp with a creel banked with a full set of full bob- 
bins, very often the bobbins will run with an entirely different 
tension than is the case when the bobbins are only partly filled. 
In some cases the difference is so great that it causes the warp 
to beam off slack and tighten on one side. To overcome this 
defect in beaming operations the warp should be treated with 
special care by the operative. Extra weights, beaming paper, as 
well as special strips of paper, must be used to build up the 
slackness so as to keep the warp running even on the beam so 
that when finished it will meet weaving requirements. 

Warps which are not completed in one day and for some reason 
left unfinished for a day or so or, perhaps longer, are usually found 
slack on one side when operations are resumed. This condition 
often exists in warps that are made with the Swiss-motion attach- 
ment. Very often the elevation irons are not set correctly and so 
bring on this defect. Rebeaming the warp once or twice has a 
tendency to improve and remedy these conditions. 

The Brake Strap 

Brake straps are not furnished with the machines, but the 
operative should always be furnished with this device, as it is 
impossible to properly construct warps without their use. They 
are used to steady and control the reel and prevent it from turning 
too freely when the section is pulled back. The accepted method 
of attaching a brake is as follows : 

A thin narrow strap or rope, long enough to reach from the 
front to the back of the frame of the warping machine, is placed 
underneath the reel. One end is attached to the frame at the 
point nearest the beaming device and the other end is passed down 
and underneath the reel, in a position about 2 inches from the 
ends of the slats of the reel, to the front part of the frame under- 
neath the carriage table. A screw eye is fastened underneath the 
carriage table through which the strap or rope is passed and a 



50 WARPING PROCESSES 

weight, sufficiently heavy for the purpose, is fastened to the end 
of the strap or rope so that the required tension may be obtained 
to hold the reel in place. 

The Guard String 

This is a device provided by attaching a strong white cord 
on each side of the reed frame and stretching it to the creel frame 
on each side. A small weight is placed on the end of each cord 
and the cords should be long enough to hang over the creel so 
that they can slide up and down freely, when it is necessary to 
move the creel. 

Bobbins that Spin Off the Pins 

Should the bobbins show a tendency to spin off the bobbin 
pins of the creel, when warping operations are being conducted 
at fast speed, the pins should be oiled, waste that has been oiled 
being used for the purpose. An oil can should never be used for 
this purpose, as too much oil may be so dropped onto the pins 
and the bobbins soiled beyond future use. 

New Warp Orders 

When the operative receives an order to make a somewhat 
different warp, it does not mean that the ends should be cut from 
the cross reed, as such a course is entirely unnecessary. The new 
ends should be tied to the old ones, and if there is no change in the 
cross reed the ends may be simply pulled through. In case there 
be a change the new ends will have to be reeded anew. 

Different Space Reeding 

In constructing long and heavy warps on the plain straight 
horizontal machine, the reeding operation differs somewhat from 
that used in constructing lighter warps. The knowledge of the 
proper way to reed such warps accurately is best attained after 
the first section is made, as much depends upon how much this 
section spreads. 



HAZARDOUS FIGURING 51 

The Construction of Warps Containing More Ends in Pattern 

than Pins on the Creel 

In constructing a warp containing more ends in the pattern 
than pins on the creel, the first half should be banked and wound 
on the reel. The second half of the pattern should be reversed 
by turning the spacing reed bottom side up, providing existent 
conditions will permit. - The proper accomplishment of such a 
coiu-se will save time in the tying up of the bobbins for the second 
half of the pattern. 

The operative should keep well in mind the fact that the cross 
must be made the reverse way of the previous section, as the first 
section will be made with a cross first up and then down, and the 
next section will have to be made first down and then up. The 
second half of the section will run through the space reed having a 
half turn. This operation will prove to be a trifle difficult to the 
beginner, but with patience and good judgment it can be eventu- 
ally accomplished. Again, the successful accomplishment of this 
method marks the skilled operative and puts him in a class by 
himself. If not attempted at all, the loss of considerable time will 
result in the tying up the bobbins and spacing the second half of 
the pattern. 

Hazardous Figuring 

While accuracy is demanded in practical warping operations, 
too much figuring in the matter of the quantity of yarns to be used 
for a warp, and other exactions in this respect, are marks of poor 
management, for such methods stand in the way of the turning 
out of a perfect warp on the part of the operative. In other words, 
paring down methods in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred pro- 
voke trouble. The department head, before giving his orders for 
the warps he wishes constructed, should make sure that yarns in 
sufficient quantity to complete the warp have been supplied to the 
operative, and particularly so when warps of a complicated nature 
are to be made. 

There are many things to take into consideration when fig- 
uring a warp and often important items are overlooked. For 
instance, even if a suitable amount is allowed, it very often occurs 



52 WARPING PROCESSES 

that sufficient quantities of yarns are not on hand or have not been 
ordered. The blame for this shortage falls wrongfully on those 
whose work it is to handle the yarns, and so dissatisfaction is 
brought about which could easily have been avoided had proper 
methods been pursued. 

In calculating the quantity of yarns it takes to make a certain 
warp, the matter of the difference in the piling up of the warp on 
the reel is not always well considered, an error which can usually 
be traced to the order clerk who lacks experience or has not been 
properly instructed in warping details. Naturally, the longer and 
heavier the warp under construction the more allowance should be 
made, and it should be borne well in mind that the smaller the reel 
the more the warp will pile up. When making lighter and shorter 
warps the difference is not so noticeable as in the case of the heavier 
sorts. 

Very often, the heavy warps pile up in such a manner as to 
result in much longer warps that the machine is set for or the order 
demands. In consequence, as there has been no allowance made 
for this piling up tendency, a yarn shortage ensues which pre- 
vents the completion of the warp and operations have to be sus- 
pended until additional yarn is supplied. Again, there is no 
assurance that the additional yarn supplied will be the exact 
shade that has been worked in the warp, and a color difference of 
this kind is bound to result in imperfect and streaky warps. 

Furthermore, it is unwise to practice too much economy in 
yarn cost, as warps constructed under these conditions invariably 
have to be worked in small sections, which, in turn, brings about 
objectionable lapping and crossed ends which interfere with per- 
fect weaving, to say nothing of additional labor, time and cost. 
All of which makes plain the point that a generous, but rational, 
yarn allowance in warp construction brings about better results 
in the long run than a niggardly managerial policy. 

Increased Length of Warps, Due to Increased Circumference 

Warping machines are not so perfected as to deliver the exact 
yardage for which they are set. A warp of 4800 ends, 60/2 
cotton, 30 inches wide, was made on a Swiss-motion warping 



CARELESS METHODS 53 

machine, with the use of the elevation irons, on what is known as 
a 2 meter reel, the circumference of which was found to measure 
85J inches. 

The dial was set for 202 meters, but the warp, when finished, 
measured 215 meters. While making the warp, it was found to 
make 93 revolutions of the reel before reaching this mark. By 
simple calculation, 93 revolutions of 8o| inches each would make 
the desired length of 202 meters, the dial revolving according to 
the revolutions made by the reel, registering accordingly. But 
it has not been considered that with every turn of the reel the 
circumference of j^arn increases, since each succeeding round laps 
over the preceding one, making the last lap of the section consid- 
erably^ longer than the first (in this case 94 inches), and the longer 
the warp, the greater the difference will be between the actual 
length and the setting of the dial. The size of the material and 
the number of ends in the warp will also add to this difference, 
since the coarser the material and the greater the bulk, the sooner 
the warp will pile up, making each revolution enlarge and gain in 
length so much the quicker. The reel, in the above case, had been 
adjusted for finer-sized material than the 60/2 cotton of which the 
warp was made. 

The following examples show the actual length of some cotton 
warps made on a Swiss machine set for 202 meters: 



Material. 


Ends. 


Width. 


Actual Length 


100/2 cotton 


3108 


30 inches 


206 meters 


80/2 " 


4800 


30 " 


210 " 


60/2 " 


4800 


30 " 


215 " 



The size of the reel must also be considered. A warp made on 
a horizontal machine, for instance, being a larger reel (8 yards), 
will not require as many revolutions as that of a Swiss machine, 
and, therefore, will not differ as much in length. The larger the 
reel, the smaller the difference gained in the length of a warp. 

Careless Methods 

Much can be said on this point, as it is, perhaps, the most 
difficult thing to contend with in warping operations. The 
worst trait of an operative is inattention to the work in hand, 



54 WARPING PROCESSES 

which usually takes the form of engaging in conversation with 
fellow operatives, thus accomplishing the doubly bad result of 
distracting the attention of the latter as well as that of his own, 
from the work in hand. This sort of thing is one of the worst of 
warping room evils and the operatives should realize (and, in 
case they do not, should be made to realize) that close attention 
to their work is absolutely necessary if satisfactory results are to 
be obtained. 

Ends must be carefully and continuously watched so that the 
necessary picking and cleaning, that all warps require, can be 
properly accompUshed. If these details are not carefully looked 
after, ends are lost and left out, knots and lumps get into the 
warps, and other mishaps are liable to occur. The ordinary 
excuses made by operatives, when called to task for careless work 
in this respect, are not usually accepted by those in charge, and 
rightly so. If at any time an occasion arises when the warping 
operative cannot give his entire attention to the work in hand, the 
best thing for him to do is to stop the machine, and so minimize 
the chance of defective work. 

Strong draughts in warping rooms are to be avoided if it is pos- 
sible to do so, for, under such conditions, when the ends of a par- 
tially finished warp are slackened they will be blown about so that 
they twist and snarl around the pins and bobbins, and, when 
they are again drawn tight, a smash is often the result. Draughts 
are particularly detrimental to the construction of pure dye warps, 
as silk yarns of this description invariably possess fluffy and 
scattering tendencies. 

Memorandum Book 

Warping operatives of the best class keep records of all the warps 
they construct, embracing all details and these, written, in a mem- 
orandum book, a course which is strongly recommended to those 
taking up this branch of silk fabric construction. Some opera- 
tives adopt the very bad plan of using pieces of paper for mem- 
oranda of their work, but, as these are easily lost or destroyed, 
their records are incomplete, and many invaluable points of warp 
construction, for future reference, are lost to them. 



THE QUALITY AND QUANTITY OF BEAMING PAPER 55 

A well-kept memorandum book, such as is described, is inval- 
uable to operatives who are given repeat orders on certain warps, 
saving both time and labor. It gives an opportunity to make 
complete records of dispositions and cut-down warps, so that, if 
at any time a question arises concerning the details of some par- 
ticular warp, such as sections and ends, the previous record of a 
similar warp is at the elbow, so to speak, of the operative. 

A simple form of record for the warping memorandum book is 
presented herewith. For example, take 5376 ends. The proper 
way to handle such a record is to jot down the ends in each sec- 
tion as it is completed. The sections should, of course, be dif- 
ferentiated by numbers. 

Date 

Warp Number 

Disposition Number 

Beams 

Color 

Stock 

Width 

Length 

Cut Marks 

10 Sections— 300 ends =3000 ends 
10 " —200 '' =2000 " 

3 " —100 '' = 300 " 

1 Section — 76 " = 76 " 



Total 5376 ends 

The Quality and Quantity of Beaming Paper 

In this matter opinions often differ widely regarding the quahty 
of paper stock that should best be used. There are many grades 
of such paper, but experience has taught that, in the long run, it 
pays to use the best obtainable. Good judgment is demanded 
on the part of the operative to make use of sufficient beaming 
paper for the construction of the warp. The heavier the warp 
the more required. It should also be borne in mind that at the 
commencement of a warp considerable paper is required and the 



56 WARPING PROCESSES 

quantity is gradually lessened as the operations proceed and the 
warp nears its completion. 

The Duties of the Order Clerk 

In recording warp orders and dispositions, it is a common error 
on the part of order clerks to use abbreviations and numerals 
instead of writing out the necessary instructions in full as should 
invariably be done. By pursuing this bad method they leave the 
way open for misunderstandings and mistakes. Being quite 
famihar with this branch of the work they find it much simpler, 
and certainly quicker, to make out warp orders using abbreviated 
terms. An order of this description, when deUvered to the warp- 
ing department may not be understood by the person in charge, 
which, in turn, necessitates the seeking out of the order clerk in 
order to obtain a clear understanding of what is required, all of 
which consumes time and can easily be obviated by properly filled 
out order forms. 

Again, it often so happens that the order ticket is misplaced 
by the operative, in which case, if the order clerk is exact in his 
methods, a duplicate order can be immediatel}^ issued and time 
saved. Clearness in giving instructions, especially in case of 
unfamiliar and complicated warps, is one of the prime duties of the 
order clerk in a modern warping department. Operatives cannot 
be held responsible for mistakes which are made because of mis- 
directions. 

The foreman, who, after all, is the one who should be held 
responsible by the head, if the warps are not properly constructed, 
should make it his business to demand that all order tickets handed 
him be plainly, completely and legibly written. A good point for 
the order clerk to observe is that, in writing orders for disposition 
warps, it is a far better practice to use the words " single," " dou- 
ble " or '' triple/' as the case may be instead of using numerals. 

Avoidable Mistakes 

When a mistake is made in warping operations, and remains 
undiscovered until the warp is completed or partly completed, the 
operative should keep his head and make every effort to find the 



SHORT AND LONG SECTIONS IN WARPING 57 

proper remedy for his mishap. Often, mistakes are made which 
are very difficult to surmount. In cases of this sort, experience 
and good judgment are very necessary attributes for the operative 
to possess. However, in the majority of cases, mistakes can be 
remedied, so that, at the worst, the warp can be utihzed in some 
way. 

Such results are often brought about by the addition of more 
yarn, picking a different cross, and the utihzation of the hand- 
picking frame to obtain a different width. Often mistakes can be 
repaired in the twisting operation. However, a great deal depends 
upon the nature of the mistake, the different contingencies which 
arise needing different handling. In many cases, means can be 
found by which mistakes in warp construction can be remedied 
and this, perhaps, with slight, or no extra cost. A mistake once 
made should be thoroughly investigated by the person in charge 
before the blame is placed. 

Short and Long Sections in Horizontal Warping 

Two of the most dreaded evils of warping operations are what 
are known as short and long sections, in horizontal warping, and 
which are largely due to carelessness on the part of the operative 
in not properly setting and regulating the machine, or the pre- 
mature cutting off of sections. 

Warping machines are made with a measuring device, and an 
indicator also, with a bell attached. The bell is for the purpose 
of giving an alarm when near the end, before cutting off a section. 
The bell works automatically with the running parts of the ma- 
chine. Therefore, if the indicator is set properly there will be no 
danger of making short or long sections, at any kind of warping. 
The operatives as a rule, nine times out of ten, blame the machine 
as being out of order when they don't understand that it is unin- 
tentionally their own fault, when they have made short or long 
bands, or sections. The following are some of their faults : 

1. Usually, after planning the making of a warp, the main 
cause of making short sections is that the operative forgets to set 
the measuring indicator properly before starting to wind the sec- 
tion on the reel. 



58 WARPING PROCESSES 

2. Cutting a section off before the indicator rings the bell for 
a warning to stop the machine. 

3. Turning the reel around after the indicator is set and before 
the section is hooked on the reel. 

4. If, in a warping room where there are a number of warping 
machines running, the operative hears the bell of some other 
machine ring and thinks it is at the machine he is working at, 
then, without thinking or investigating, he may cut off, and, by 
this mistake, leave a short section. 

5. By the operative being suddenly interrupted, or his atten- 
tion attracted with talking, or by some other means, when he may 
thoughtlessly cut off, not thinking of the short or long section he 
may be making. 

6. It may happen that ends break out after the bell rings and 
then the machine is stopped, which is right. Then the operator 
repairs the broken ends, but, without thinking of cutting off, 
starts the machine running again, which causes a long section. 

The repairing of one or more long sections is a simple operation, 
and is accomplished by first cutting the lease cord and then beam- 
ing the long section on the beam with the balance of the warp, an 
operation which results in the separating of the long section or 
sections from the others. The tension weights are then released, 
and the long section is wound on the beam until the cross is 
reached. The cross rods are placed in the long section which is 
then wound back on the reel by reversing the power of the friction 
pulley at the reel. The same result is got by turning the reel back 
with the hand, and, at the same time, carefully turning the cross 
through its proper place in the warp, which operation enables the 
operative to cut off the over-run length of the long section, or 
sections, for waste. 

A short section is more difficult to repair and considerable 
study should be given to the situation by the operative so that he 
can ascertain the best and easiest way to go about the work. If 
there are enough bobbins remaining on the creel, corresponding 
with the number of ends in the short section, repairs can be 
made by turning the reel backwards, loosening the warp and ten- 
sion weights, and removing the short section back to the carriage. 
The cross is then secured with a short cord and the short section 



THE MATTER OF WASTE ON BOBBINS 59 

can be separated from the warp proper. The operation is con- 
tinued by placing the cross rods in the short sections which are 
fastened on the reel. A cross is made in the section that is to be 
pieced in such a manner as to bring the two crosses together so 
that each end can be tied individually. 

In some cases, it is not advisable to adopt this course, as the 
section can be more conveniently repaired at the loom by making 
the pieced section on a separate beam. In other cases this method 
does not pay at all, for it may so turn out that, by simpl}- placing 
the cross rods in the lease, working the cross back so that it meets 
with the cross in the short section, and tying these together, the 
wasted sections may be cut off, which, of course, are figured as a 
loss. 

In the operation of Swiss warping, long sections, which are to 
be repaired, are treated about in the same manner, but in the case 
of short sections the warp is usually cut off to fit the short section^ 
which reduces the loss owing to the smaller reel and shorter length. 

The Matter of Waste on Bobbins 

Operatives sometime develop the bad habit of removing bob- 
bins from the creel which still have too much yarn on them to be 
so wasted. This type of workman will bear watching, as such 
methods lead to the accumulation of considerable waste in a very 
short time. The practice is, perhaps, largely accounted for in 
the running out of many bobbins at the same time, which, of course, 
must be replaced with full bobbins. The rule should be rigidly 
adhered to that the yarn on all the bobbins must be run off clean. 
If this be done, operatives will be made to realize the costly yarn 
waste which occurs from nothing but sheer carelessness. 

Treadle Strain 

Operatives of slight physique, when using the tread pedal to 
run the horizontal machine, even with easily-running yarns, very 
often find that the operation is tiresome and more or less of a mus- 
cular strain. This may be offset by the use of a stick long enough 
to reach from under the carriage table to the lower part of the 



60 WARPING PROCESSES ' 

tread pedal when it is pressed down. The stick may then be 
propped under the carriage table. 

Experienced operatives make use of this method by tying a 
cord to the upper end of the stick, by which means it is fastened 
under the table, thus placing the stick within handy reach. The 
stick may be brought into use by pressing the pedal down with the 
foot so that it may be adjusted in a position between the carriage 
table and pedal. Slight pressure on the pedal will release and move 
the stick, causing immediate stoppage to the machine. The 
same arrangement can be applied to the beaming pedal when a 
warp is being beamed. 

Inexperienced Operatives 

Many applicants for positions in warping plants claim to be 
experienced operatives, but their lack of skill is soon ascertained 
when they are placed on the machines. The claim that they are 
skilled in warping operations is not substantiated by results. 
However, this is not to be wondered at as no two mills in the warp- 
ing branch of the industry employ the same methods. Some 
applicants, who have been engaged in warping operations for 
years, possess but the rudimentary knowledge of tying up, and 
the starting and stoppage of the machine, which limited equip- 
ment, in many cases, has been acquired from some other warping 
operative, who, in turn, possessed but a limited knowledge of the 
business obtained by working on plain simple warps. 

Many applicants present themselves for positions as warpers 
whose experience has been strictly limited to plain and simple 
warps. When such are given a warp to construct, possessing un- 
familiar details, it generally results in a request for assistance from 
other operatives. The possession of good rudimentary knowledge, 
however, sometimes offsets a lack of experience in the construc- 
tion of more complicated warps. An operative of this description 
can be easily and well taught, and so, in time, become a reliable 
workman. The ability to take in hand and construct every sort 
of warp used in the weaving end of the industry requires an expe- 
rience of many years, and such warping operatives can always 
find positions. 



SAMPLE WARPS MADE ON THE HORIZONTAL ALICHIXE 61 

Sample Warps Made on the Horizontal Machine 

In making short sample warps on the horizontal machines, the 
reel of which possesses no special arrangement on wliich to hook 
the finished section ends, temporary wire hooks should be made 
and utiHzed. These are bent and fitted so that they will clasp 
on the slat of the warp reel nearest to the length of warp which is to 
be constructed. These useful makeshifts can easily be removed 
and laid aside for future use. 

Ombre Warps 

In this dehcate warping operation, the best plan to pursue by 
the foreman is to give but one color at a time to the operative with 
careful instructions for treatment, repeating this method for each 
designated color until the warp construction is completed. The 
number of bobbins required, and the quantity of yarns to be 
wound on each bobbin, should not onty be carefully pointed out to 
the operative but the bobbins for each shade of the warp should 
bear a distinguishing mark of some description. In some estab- 
hshments the color number is plainly marked on the bobbin, while 
others make use of gummed labels carrying numbers. The use of 
either one of these methods eliminates the danger of the mixing of 
colors in the building of this exacting class of warp. 

The Handling of Swiss Warping Machines 

If the equipment of a warping department or warping plant 
consists only of the regular Swiss machines, the best course to 
pursue is to relegate the beaming to a male operative. Many 
plants, so equipped, also make use of the services of an assistant 
in lifting operations, and so doing away with the beaming of the 
warps on the part of the operatives. This method necessitates 
the stoppage of the warping machine during beaming operations, 
unless spare reels have been provided, which should always be the 
case. In small plants, if there is not sufficient beaming work to 
keep the beamer and assistant busy during the working day, their 
services can be made use of in various other ways such as in clean- 
ing up and keeping the department or mill in order, repairing and 



62 WARPING PROCESSES 

oiling machinery, delivering warps, collecting empty beams, and 
the handling and distribution of beaming paper. 

The Beaming Machine 

The beaming machine is a device in itself and separate from the 
warping machine and is only used for the beaming of warps that 
are constructed on the regular Swiss warping machines, and then 
only when the warp is completed. When finished, the reel and 
warp are lifted out of the warping machine by two male operatives, 
and placed by them in the beaming machine. The beaming 
operative centers the warp so that it fits on the beam, which 
operation is, in turn, accomplished by turning the worm-screw 
supplied for the purpose. 

One end of a cloth apron is then tacked on the beam, and a thin 
iron rod is inserted in the opposite end of the apron. For this 
purpose, several slits or holes are placed in the end of the apron 
where the rod is inserted, being so placed for the purpose of fasten- 
ing the ends of the sections through the slits so that they can be 
tied to the rod, and used for the operation of winding the warp 
on the beam. As the warp winds from the reel, sheets of beaming 
paper, are, from time to time, placed on the beam with the warp 
thus winding up with it, so that the latter may be held tightly in 
place. Heavy and long warps, fashioned of coarse material, can 
be beamed off on flange beams that are made especially for this 
purpose. It is not necessary to use beaming paper for this class of 
beam. 

The details of the various operations required in the beaming 
of the different warps are only acquired by the operative after 
years of experience. The successful workman in this branch must 
give his undivided attention to his task, and make use of sound 
judgment practically every minute of his time. This is especially 
so when the warp is being beamed, for a constant watch must be 
kept on the rod placed between the reel and beam, which, in turn, 
will rise should there be any threads of the warp which catch while 
beaming. The raising of the rod by these sticky ends is a warning 
to the operator to immediately stop the machine and repair the 
threads. 



THE BEAMING IMACHINE 



63 



As there is no fixed method for regulating or governing the 
tension straps, the operative must make use of his best judgment 
and skill so that the warp is not beamed too loose or too tight. 
His attention should be concentrated on the warp while beaming 
until the operation is completed, as he has many things to contend 
with, such as " wringers," or, long and short ends, which require 
skill to repair. When he is quite satisfied that the warp is beamed 




1 



Jr V ^dT A.J: A A A3 



'^ »■' !^il ml 




Fig. 12. — Swiss Beaming Machine, and Empty Reel. 

correctly, he should loosen the sections from the reel and twist 
them slightly together on the beam. The warp should then be 
completely wrapped in paper and corded at the center and at each 
end. The required piecing bobbins are attached, and the warp 
is thus completed and is now ready for the loom. 

Warping with a Low Grade of Silk 

In a mill where a low grade of silk is being used to make warps 
on the regular Swiss machine, it will be best to have plenty of 
space, at least 7 or 8 feet, between the creel and cross reed, and 



64 WARPING PROCESSES 

very slow speed, running from 10 to 14 yards per minute, so that 
the picking, cleaning and tying of the knots can be done without 
stopping the machine. This requires good experienced warper 
operatives, and an assistant who is learning. 

The operative must have considerable patience and good humor, 
and also possess good eyesight, so as to be able to give the necessary 
attention that the warp needs in such important details as the 
picking and cleaning of all imperfections from the yarn, and 
delivering perfect warps to the loom, so that there will be no 
trouble in weaving perfect fabrics so far as warping workmanship 
is concerned. 

Picking the Warp 

In this operation, the warper is expected to remove from the 
warp all imperfections of a sufficiently serious character as to 
cause blemishes to appear in the fabric when woven. Such defects 
will be slugs, or thick lumps in the yarn; bad winders' knots, 
either too bulky, or with long ends; split ends, where the warp 
threads have been partly cut through; very coarse ends, or doubled 
ends, where a thread is grossly thicker than the average of the 
warp; very fine ends, where the thread is so attenuated that it 
would be certain to break down in the weaving; and, in general, 
all imperfections of a serious character. High-class silk, well 
thrown, requires but little picking, whereas with poor silk, and 
poor throwing, the labor is increased, with a conesquent increase 
in the time taken in making a warp. The picking requires the 
closest attention on the part of the operative, coupled with great 
manual dexterity, and, to turn out a perfect warp, much skill and 
good judgment must here be used. 

The methods of picking the warp will vary according to the 
types of the warping machines used. In Swiss warping, as each 
section slowly winds on the reel, the operative, as she sees the 
imperfections traveling down the threads from the creel to the 
reel, leans over, takes the thread at the imperfect place between 
her finger and thumb, draws the thread up (the bobbin of course 
giving off the necessary slack yarn), and then ties a knot in the 
doubled or looped thread, below the place where the damage is, 
chpping off neatly with her scissors the loop with the damaged 



PICKING THE WARP 65 

part in. She then drops the end, the movement of the reel immedi- 
ately straightening, out the thread. If the warp is made of good, 
clean material, she will be able to do the picking without stopping 
the machine, attending to each imperfection as it appears, and 
making her knot, and clipping off while the threads are in motion. 
If, however, the imperfections are too numerous for this, she will 
stop the movement of the reel by pressing her foot on a pedal, 
and then, after cleaning off the imperfections that are before her, 
will start the reel again by releasing the pedal. It is astonishing 
how clever some warpers are, and the rapidity and accuracy with 
which they can clean a warp while the machine is in motion, and 
do it well. The cleaning can be done from either side of the warp 
as may be most convenient, and the picking is done on that 
expanse of warp between the creel reed and the cross reed. Where 
very Uttle cleaning is to be done, the reel can be rim correspond- 
ingly faster. 

On the horizontal warping mills, the picking is done during the 
beaming process, where the entire number of warp threads are in 
view. In this picking, there is the disadvantage that the threads 
are under tension, so that, when an imperfection is broken out, a 
length of piecing yarn must be used and two knots tied, the second 
knot having to be done under tension, and much skill is required 
to do it properly, a skill by no means always shown. In this 
piecing-up of the threads, a special draw knot should be used to 
avoid leaving slack ends in the warp. Also, where the threads are 
thus concentrated, instead of being spread out as during their 
passage from the bobbins, a great many imperfections are liable 
to be buried in the warp and not seen, turning up later to make 
trouble for the weaver and to cut down the production of the 
loom. 

Another method in picking, and one which has much to com- 
mend it, is to do no picking at all in the warping process, it being 
therefore, practicable to run the warping and beaming at a 
higher rate of speed. After the warp has been beamed, it is then 
put onto a carriage, or frame, and is then rebeamed onto another 
beam mounted on another frame, or carriage, the two being a 
short distance apart, say, 8 to 10 feet. One of these beams driven 
by power, winds up slowly, the other one giving off the warp, 



66 WARPING PROCESSES 

and the operative who does the picking, or cleaning, stands beside 
it and carefully removes the imperfections from the warp as they 
come into view. The speed will be as slow or as fast as is war- 
ranted by circumstances, and, as there is no compulsion as to the 
time to be taken, the warp can in this way be cleaned in a most 
thorough manner. In cleaning during the warping, if too much 
time is taken, the warping will fall behind the production of the 
looms, whereas this separate cleaning permits the warping machines 









1 


m_ 


■ \; J 


■■'■-'#: % 


m^^ 


:.#_ 




1:1 


mm 


J 






urn- 




• 




"^k-m 


*'-.-■-. 
'■>«-.■ 


:■! 




. -■„-. . ^ h 






i 


\t 


"""S*" 


'^25^ ■ 




--11 


.^ 


Jl 


A 


' 


' ' ' ? ' 












''''^*'*J 


f^^ 




■ • i 

1 


f 


m 














Ji 


d 



Fig. 13. — 1. A warp ready for picking, in a power picking frame^ 2. Fin- 
ished warps, placed in an iron warp-rack. 



to run even faster. Also, the cost is not greater, and really is less, 
for the cleaning of the warp must be done anyhow, and, in this 
separate picking, it is done to greater advantage than at the 
warping mill, and every imperfection which is removed, that 
otherwise would cause a thread to break down in weaving, in- 
creases the loom production in the weaving by just that much. 
No effort or expense should be spared to make the warps as clean 
and as perfect as possible. 



DAMAGED WARPING REEDS 67 

Damaged Warping Reeds 

One of the causes of defective threads in a warp is often found 
to be due to worn blades in the warping reed. The friction of the 
threads against the worn reed blades wears a groove in the blades, 
which tends to scrape and damage the threads. If the latest 
improved reed motions are not used, it will be advisable to exam- 
ine the space and cross reeds occasionally, to see if there are any 
worn or grooved blades. Some reeds last longer than others, but it 
largely depends upon the yarns used in the warps. If the reeds 
are not worn very much, they can be repaired, otherwise they will 
have to be renewed. It is advisable to have all warping reeds 
nickel plated, so as to avoid rusting of the reed blades, which often 
causes soiled marks in white and light-colored warps. In winding, 
quilling, and doubling operations, yarns are often damaged from 
running through worn and grooved guides, caused by the friction 
of the threads. All guides should be examined frequently, and, 
if worn, removed at once. 

Importance of the Lease 

It is really interesting to know how a warp of thousands of 
threads, and any required length, is leased with a cross, being thus 
built and bound together so that each end can be separated from 
the others without tangHng. It would be impossible to manu- 
facture the quantities of fabrics that are used, without the lease or 
cross cord, especially those made of silk or other fine yarns. 

Treatment of White Yams 

White and delicate shades of yarn, after being received from 
the bleachers and dyers, should be handled with the greatest of 
care. Every skein should be examined thoroughly and all soiled 
skeins laid aside to be used in other fabrics where the warp or 
filling covers the soiled spots, or when they cannot be seen in the 
pattern. The skeins should be carefully selected before they are 
given to the winder operative, and should be well covered and 
protected from dust and dirt. The operative should be supphed 
with every accessory to cleanliness, such as soap, towel, French 



68 WARPING PROCESSES 

chalk, powder, etc., so there will be no excuse for handling the ma~ 
terial with soiled or moist hands. When these precautions are 
taken, the work will be clean, although every operative cannot be 
trusted to wind white yarns. The machinery should be frequently 
examined to see that all spindles, swifts and, especially, the bob- 
bins, are clean. If the wound bobbins are to be stored, each bob- 
bin should be wrapped in white tissue paper. Yarns for imme- 
diate use should be carefully placed in baskets or boxes, covered 
well, and delivered to the next operative who is to handle it. 

There are many ways in which white and light shades are 
soiled in warping, beaming and quilling operations. Very often 
poor work is quite unintentional, and is due to ignorance and care- 
lessness on the part of a beginner. Foremen should keep a sharp 
eye on this class of operatives. 

Careless Warper Operatives 

Naturally, everything has to be handled with the utmost care 
in a warping room. Some warper operatives are careless about 
handling parts of the machinery without washing their hands before 
handling light-colored yarns, thereby soiling same and causing 
irretrievable damage. Very often the reeds are at fault, being 
unclean or rusty, conditions which cannot be rectified too quickly. 

When loosing ends from the reeds and pulHng back to so find 
and repair them, it is very dangerous to omit the free use of 
French chalk on the hands. Rather than take the chance of 
soiling the white yarns, the ends of the section should be lapped 
after they are drawn through the reeds. The sections of a warp 
should not be allowed to stand any unreasonable length of time, 
as they will show dust marks. In tying knots, the ends should 
never be bitten off, as soiled knots will invariably result from 
the practice. The warp reel should be well covered and care 
should also be taken to keep the warp well covered when in the 
building. Paper should be wound around the reel over the warp 
so that it can be slid on the warp in process. 

The apron worn by the woman operative to protect her clothes, 
and often made use of by her for the wiping of soiled hands and, 
perhaps, machinery parts, is frequently responsible for soiled 



IMAKIXG USE OF OLD YARN LOTS 69 

white warps. Foremen should insist upon the use of clean aprons 
in the warping room. 

There are also numerous ways in which white and hght shades 
of yarns are soiled in quilling or spooUng operations. In many 
cases the trouble may be due to complicated, and fast-speeded 
machinery, or to the amount of handhng that the yarn is ex- 
posed to. 

After every effort has been made in the various departments 
to deliver clean yarns, there are numerous accidents at the loom 
that frequently result in soiled fabrics. Often the trouble is not 
detected while weaving, but still appears in the woven fabric, and 
it is then hard to determine the direct cause of soiled threads, 
spots and streaks. Naturally, the weaver, to free himself from 
blame, claims that the warp or filhng, as the case might be, was 
soiled before he received it from the warping or winding room. 
Every mill manufacturing white and hght shades should treat 
these separately from other colors, and this throughout all the 
processes from the winding to the finished fabrics. 

White fabrics can be manufactured perfectly at times in some 
mills, but perfect white fabrics can rarely be manufactured at all 
times in any mill. Those who thoroughly understand silk textile 
operations, and have had wide experience, are famihar with the 
different processes and treatments that white yarns must undergo 
before they become the finished fabric. Veteran operatives on 
white yarns endeavor to produce perfect goods at all times, but 
it seems to be an utter impossibihty to prevent soihng. Every 
operative who has to do with white yarn should be constantly 
warned by those in charge, and so lessen the possibihty of soihng, 
and this care should be maintained in all stages from the winding 
to the finished fabric. 

Making Use of Old Yam Lots in Warps 

There are various ways to mix old lots, and remnants of a 
color, when necessary to use them in a warp for mixed or figured 
fabrics. When good judgment and common sense are used in 
mixing the color, there is no danger of streaky warps. But in 
plain warps, no matter how carefully the color is mixed, there is 



70 WARPING PROCESSES 

always some danger of the warp turning out a streaky warp. 
Sometimes this mixing is done so that use may be made of old 
lots or remnants, but if there is too great a difference in the color 
matching there is always the possibility of a streaky warp; but if 
the colors are a true match and are properly mixed, and if, after 
the beginning of the first section, the warp is examined and appears 
even, the warp can be finished without fear of streakiness. 

There are times when streaks are not discovered until the 
warp is completed, and then there is apparently no cause for them. 
But if it is traced properly, the cause may be found to be either 
due to carelessness in mixing the yarns, uneven dyeing, or irregular 
winding. It very often occurs that yarn is wound soft on the 
bobbins by some operatives and hard by others. If these are not 
properly mixed, streaky warps will be the result. But if this 
defect is known when the warper receives the bobbins, the warper 
operative should be given instructions just how to mix them, and, 
by accomplishing this properly, the streaky defects will be ehm- 
inated. 

It depends largely upon circumstances as to just when rem- 
nants can best be used and the proper way to mix them. If there 
are two or three lots of the same color intended for one or more 
warps, it is best to bank and tie up end-and-end throughout the 
entire creel, and, especially, if there is an equal number of bobbins 
and weight of silk in each lot. The bobbins should not be arranged 
so that the full bobbins are on one side and the empty, or partly 
empty, ones on the other side of the creel, as this will cause the 
bobbins to run out as emptied which have to be replaced with 
bobbins of a different lot, invariably causing streaky warps. This 
is one of the important things for the operative to remember in 
order to keep the bobbins uniformly scattered. 

To indicate the difference between the bobbins when they run 
out, each lot should be marked with chalk, so it can easily be seen 
which lot to replace when necessary. It is not always best, in all 
cases, to follow the rule of mixing the colors end-and-end, as, if 
the difference in the colors will permit, they can be mixed in pro- 
portion to the amount of material there is to be used. If there are 
only one-quarter as many of one lot of a material as of another, 
and the bobbins are properly filled, naturally they can be tied, 



SELVAGES, EDGES, OR BINDERS 



71 



one end of the smaller lot to three or more ends of the larger, and 
so it will be in all similar cases. 

It is a very simple matter to give instructions to the operative 
to mix end-and-end, and not to take into consideration the number 
of bobbins it requires to fill the creel. Should the operative follow 
such instructions, one lot may run out before the entire creel is 
banked and, not knowing of the danger, the operator banks the 
rest of the creel with one lot. The result is a streaky warp, 




Fig. 14. — 1. Edge-warping machine and anchor bobbins. 

edge take-off machine. 



2. Hand-drive 



which defect is very seldom discovered until the warp is com- 
pleted or partly so, and, if the operative is called to account, she 
invariably does not understand why she was at fault. Nine 
times out of ten it is not until she explains how the creel was 
banked, that the mistake is discovered. 



Selvages, Edges, or Binders 

Selvages and edges are made and used with all warps. With 
some warps, the selvages are constructed simultaneously on each 



72 WARPING PROCESSES 

side, and usually are made of double threads of the same material 
as the warp. Other warps require separate edges, a trifle longer 
(from 5 to 20 per cent) than the warp. These are wound on bob- 
bins made especially for this purpose, which are very strong and 
heavy, with a groove on one or both heads or flanges for holding 
the tension cords when using the edges with the warps. These 
are commonly called anchor bobbins. 

Edges are made in various ways and are of different kinds. In 
order to get the required result, some are made with heavier 
material than the warp, the selection naturally depending upon 
the fabric to be woven. Some edges are made with one color, 
others have a fancy stripe, and there is considerable difference of 
opinion concerning the way in which they should be made. 

Some warper operatives make the edges after completing the 
warp and wind them on the anchor bobbins by means of a mechan- 
ism made for this purpose, called the take-off machine. 

Edges can be made in considerable quantities on the warp 
machine at one time, but in large mills the equipment includes a 
regular edge machine that winds and measures the length of one 
or two pairs of edges direct on the anchor bobbins. This machine 
can be operated by either a boy or girl. 

Power and Speeds for Winding, Warping, Beaming and Quilling 

Machines 

For this class of machinery, the individual or group electric 
drive is the most satisfactory and reliable, as well as the safest and 
cleanest. There is no absolute rule for the exact speed at which 
these machines should be driven. Experience and careful trials 
usually determine what rate of speed is suitable for the material. 

A skein-winding machine is driven with step-cone pulleys, one 
from the line shaft and one on the machine; by shifting the belt 
one way or the other on the cone pulleys, the desired speed can be 
obtained. This arrangement is considered the old way. 

When the machine is of the type that is driven direct from the 
line shaft, arranged with variable speed-friction pulley, it is con- 
sidered as driven the new way. The pulleys can be more easily 
and quickly adjusted than by any other arrangement which is 



MAKESHIFTS FOR HORIZONTAL MACHINE 73 

workable to obtain any speed required for winding all grades of 
material. 

The horizontal warping machine requires two different driving 
motions, one direct from the Hne shaft to the beamer gear wheels 
to do the beaming, and the other with the warp reel driven from 
the beamer drive with two grooved disk pulleys and friction, by 
means of a flange secured to the side of the reel, which is driven 
and comes in contact with a friction pulley that is carried on a 
lever and operated by the use of a treadle. This will provide the 
power and control the speed, and it is proper to run the machine 
at the rate of 70 to 80 yards per minute, and this will limit the 
beaming rate of speed to from 4 to 8 yards at the start of the 
beaming, for, as the warp winds and builds up on the beam, the 
speed invariably increases. 

A regular Swiss warping machine, and a beamer machine, are 
separate, and are driven with step-cone pulleys so that they can 
be arranged to run at any speed that is required. The proper 
rate of speed should be from 6 to 30 meters per minute, as may 
suit the requirements of the material, either warping or beaming. 

Makeshifts for the Horizontal Warping Machine 

There are several things necessary with a horizontal warping 
machine which are not furnished when purchasing the machine, 
and these must be adjusted before the machine can be used to 
make a warp. 

1. The entire quantity of bobbin pins should be numbered 
on the frame of the creel directly over each row of pins, with good 
plain figures. 

2. A thin strip of wood about 3 inches wide, white upon one side, 
black upon the other, extending the full width of the creel, should 
be arranged directly underneath the glass reed, so that it can be 
easily reversed, to use either black or white, whenever necessary 
to plainly see the ends. 

3. There should be a heavy wire about 7 J inches long with a 
hook at each end to hold the cross reed on the creel when reeding. 

4. There should also be a thin wire extending the full width of 
the cross-reed frame, so that a black or white cloth, or paper, may 



74 



WARPING PRCOESSES 



be hung on the wire between the space and cross reeds, in order to 
see the ends plainly. 

5. One or two wire hooks should be fastened on the side of the 
carriage to hold broken ends when pulhng back the section. 




Fig 15. — 1. Flanged warp beam, with rod and apron. 2. Warp beam, with 
beam heads, rod and apron. 3. Quill board with wound quills. 4. 
Quill board, empty. 5. Fibre box and full quills. 6. Fibre swift brace. 
7. Endless cotton-cord swift braces. 8. Three crossing rods. 9. Reeding 
hook. 10. Cross-reed holder hook. 11. Eye shade. 12. Winder swift 
tension weights. 13. Section spacing compass. 14. Section hook for 
sample warps. 15. Black, and white, strips for reed background. 
16. Bone pick. 17. Doubler flyer guide. 18. Winder spindle, with 
wooden head. 19. Doubler spindle for take-up bobbin. 20. Quiller 
spindle with grooved head. 21. Iron bracket device for stopping bob- 
bins from winding too full. 



6. There should be six bobbin pins on the front of the car- 
riage to hold different color piecing bobbins. 

7. There should be a pin under the carriage table to hold a 
bobbin containing crossing cord. 

8. There should be a narrow strap or rope for a brake, and ten- 
sion weights, to control the reel when winding a section. 



NECESSARY TOOLS FOR WARPING 75 

9. A row of bobbin pins, used for holding piecing bobbins, 
should be arranged on the frame extending the full width of the 
reel, and about 3 feet above the beaming device. 

10. A wire or cord should extend the full width of the frame 
under the warp when beaming, to fasten a black or white cloth or 
paper to for a background. 

11. A roller, as long as the width of the reel, with a cloth 
attached for covering the warp when not working, should be 
arranged on the frame under the beaming device. The cloth 
should be about 9 yards long and may be rolled up when not in 
use. 

12. There should be a rope, strap or chain about 2 feet long 
with a loop at each end and a heavy iron pin, or square-head lag 
screw, to attach to the beam on the beaming device. 

13. There should be special wire-section hooks, to hang on the 
reel slats for short sample warps. 

Necessary Tools for Warping 

1. A strip of good, smooth, stiff, cardboard paper, 2| X8 inches, 
black on one side, white on the other, to be used for a background 
when reeding. 

2. Pencil and Chalk 6. Dividing Compass 

3. Memorandum Book 7. Small Monkey Wrench 

4. Two-foot Rule 8. Scissors 

5. Reeding Hook 9. Bone Pick 

10. Screw-driver 



CHAPTER IV 
QUILLING PROCESSES 

Quilling 

In general, the process of quilling is the winding of the yarns 
on the shuttle bobbins, commonly termed quills. This is an 
important process and needs the greatest attention in order to 
attain perfect work and prevent unnecessary waste. 




Fig. 16. — High-speed, Underdrive, Quiller. 



In this process, great care must be paid to small details, which, 
if overlooked, cause trouble, such as soft or hard quills, quills 
wound too full or not full enough, soiled white yarns, or other 
things, caused by neglecting machinery repair and the care- 
lessness of operatives. 

76 



QUILLING 77 

Quill winding is a very simple operation, but there are many- 
different makes of quilling machines, some quite simple and others 
more complicated. All are easily operated, however, as each 
spindle is arranged to run separately. 

The spindle is set and regulated to make the quill the required 
size and length, so that, when it is full, it stops automatically by 
means of the stopper device. 

The number of spindles to which an operative can give careful 
attention depends largely upon the yarn, the speed of the machine, 
and the length of the quill. Naturally, fine yarn fills the quills 
much more slowly than is the case when coarse yarn is being worked. 
An operative can, of course, give her attention to more ends when 
quilling fine yarns than is the case when coarse yarns are running 
on the machine; on the other hand, more work is attached to 
coarse-size quilling, as the quills fill up very quickly. 

Fast speed is of the greatest importance to a quilling machine. 
There are very many different makes and no two of them are 
driven at the same rate of speed. Some are made to quill or wind 
the most tender material that can be woven, at a rate of speed 
of from two to six thousand revolutions of the quill per 
minute. 

The operative has many little details to look after, and some- 
times real problems to contend with in the working day, but these 
must be met and solved if satisfactory work is to be turned in. 
The experienced girl starts the quill in neat and proper manner; 
she does not leave stringy and snarly ends on the heads of the 
quills; she ties good knots when it is necessary to tie broken ends; 
she does not bite or tear the ends, but habitually makes use of 
scissors and uses great care when working with white or light- 
colored yarns. 

There is no rule governing the regularity of the tension of quills, 
which can only be determined correctly by the sense of feeling 
and by examining them; therefore, good judgment must be used 
as to their tightness. As there are many kinds and counts of 
yarns, each sort must be humored with the tension best in accord 
with its strength and other characteristics. 

It is well enough to knot fine yarns when ends break, but it is 
not advisable to so treat coarse sizes, as it makes large and clumsy 



78 QUILLING PROCESSES 

knots which will not readily pass through the eye of the weaver's 
shuttle, causing imperfect work, reduction of yardage and waste. 
The operative must keep well in mind that the slightest mis- 
take made in colors, or in the matter of yarn sizes invariably 
results in a loss, as there is no possible way to remedy such errors, 
which are rarely discovered until the cloth is woven and examined. 

How Quilling is Accomplished 

In this operation, an empty quill is placed on the spindle and 
the yarn end attached to the quill from the bobbin. The thread is 
placed in the guide and the spindle allowed to run. When full, 
the quill is removed and another placed on the spindle. 

One method of starting the thread on the quill is to pass a 
few turns around it near the head before placing it in an operative 
position. Another method is to put the empty quill in position 
after wrapping the thread around the spindle. As the full quill 
is removed, the yarn end is carried back on the quill and made 
fast with one or two slip knots. This method assists the weaver 
and prevents ravelling, and wastage of costly yarn. 

When necessary to tie knots, it is often a good plan to guide 
each knot to the top of the previous filling wound on the quill, as, 
in many cases, a knot allowed to wind on the quill, and to become 
covered with the material, will break the filling while weaving 
and may also break out warp ends. It is a well-known fact that a 
carefully-arranged and well-conducted quilling room will pay 
for itself in the long run. 

Quilling and Filling Supply Department 

In any mill where plain fabrics are manufactured in large 
quantities, the quilling and filling department should give very 
little trouble, providing it is manned with reliable and experienced 
operatives, but in mills where a variety of fancy fabrics are man- 
ufactured, calling for the use of all sizes of material and many 
colors, often in small quantities, the proper control of the quilUng 
department requires experience, skill, and managerial capacity. 

It would be difficult to select and recommend any one system 
of management for this department, but, in adopting any system, 



QUILL BOAUD FILLERS 79 

one of the first things necessary is to secure the services of an 
experienced, reliable and intelligent department head. Such a 
man must have patience and exhaustive knowledge of the various 
yarns, sizes, and colors, and of the weaving uses they are to be 
put to. 

It is very necessary for the department head, in turn, to secure 
intelligent winder, doubler and quiller operatives, and board fillers. 
If the mill management can afford to employ a man who is famihar 
with repairing machinery, and who can, at the same time, keep 
the department in order, such a course is advisable. 

There should be suppHed tables, shelves, and plenty of drawers, 
properly arranged, with each shelf and drawer numbered, for the 
convenient storage of yarns to be worked, and a good supply of 
boxes, baskets, bobbins and quills. Should there be large stocks 
of various yarns and colors, the system of using different colored 
bobbins and quills should be adopted. Such a system has proved 
its value time and again as it not only prevents mistakes, but 
saves much valuable time. A Hst covering the different colored 
bobbins and quills, and stating which kind of material to wind on 
each color, should be distributed and hung in several convenient 
places so that it may be consulted when necessary. 

Quill Board Fillers 

To supply the weavers with filling, boards are provided con- 
taining a series of short-length wires or nails, driven upright in 
the board, upon which the quills are placed heads down. These 
are generally called quill boards, and are used to hold the filUng 
for weaving purposes. 

While the weaver is using and emptying the quills from one 
board, the board-filler prepares a duplicate board, which remains 
in the filling department until the original board is returned by the 
weaver who is given the duplicate board. This operation is 
repeated until the warp is run out. 

The board-filler is given proper orders as the warp is being 
placed in the loom, and is again notified when only a few yards 
of the warp are to be finished, which acts as a check and sim- 
phfies the work of the filling and emptying of the boards. 



80 



QUILLING PROCESSES 



The desirable quilling operative possesses such traits as intel- 
ligence, reliability and activity, as well as a good memory. Expe- 
rienced operatives are quite familiar with yarn sizes and colors. 
This class readily discovers imperfections in yarns and takes pains 
to remedy such defects before the quills are sent to the weaving 
room. Too much care cannot be taken in the important matter 




Fig. 17.— Doubling Machine. 

of lot numbers, and the reliable employee, under all circumstances, 
makes it a point to follow and remember the lot number before the 
delivering of the filling to the weaver at the loom. 



Process of Doubling Materials 

The doubhng machine is similar to the skein-winding machine 
with the swifts omitted, and with a series of bobbin pins projecting 
from the trame, directly below each set of spindle bearings. Small 



PROCESS OF DOUBLING MATERIALS 81 

friction levers, with adjustable tensions, rest on the bobbins when 
necessary. A series of stop motions, with pivoted faller-wires, is 
provided to control the separate ends, so that any desired number 
of threads can be collectively wound on the take-up bobbin, at one 
time. Each thread is so passed through the faller-wires that, if 
one should break, or run out, its faller-wire would drop and cause 
the spindle and running bobbin to stop immediately, giving the 
operative an opportunity to repair the broken end or ends. This 
operation is termed doubling. 

This machine is simple in operation, and is employed in some 
mills because of its use for rewinding materials from other bobbins 
previously wound from the skein, and it is very convenient for 
the doubhng up of remnants and odd lots that accumulate in a 
mill from time to time. It is also useful when filling material is 
required consisting of two, three, or four or more threads to give 
a good body in the fabrics, and produce the desired effect in the 
pattern. The number of spindles that an operative can attend 
to, keeping them suppHed and running, depends largely upon the 
material, size, and number of ends. 



CHAPTER V 
MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

Supply of Good Bobbins Advantageous 

A VERY important item for all silk mills to consider is that of 
having a good supply of the very best bobbins obtainable, as it 
will pay in the long run. Specially divided boxes, or bins, should 
also be provided and placed in a convenient place. If colored 
bobbins are used, each color should be kept separate, clean and in 
good order. Quills should be cared for in the same manner. 

All operatives coming in contact with the bobbins should be 
instructed to keep them clean, using only sandpaper to clean them, 
as the use of a knife or scissors for this purpose damages the bob- 
bins. Anyone disregarding these instructions should be heavily 
fined or made to pay for each bobbin damaged. The use of sand- 
paper will tend to keep the bobbins smooth. When this treat- 
ment is neglected they will always be cut, scratched and rough, 
causing the material to cling to the bobbins, and making more 
waste than necessary when they are wound off. This invariably 
causes smashes while warping. 

Another annoying feature appears when remnants and odd lots 
of accumulated materials must be disposed of to the waste dealer, 
or when another firm that has been employed to do commission 
winding or warping in order that the work may be got out more 
quickly, sends back rough and damaged bobbins, of different sizes 
and of other ownership, in return for the good, clean bobbins that 
were sent them. 

If irregular bobbins are accepted and thrown in with the reg- 
ular ones, there is no end of trouble. The operative using them, 
not knowing they are a trifle too long or too short, starts to wind 
the yarn on them, and only discovers they are the wrong size when 
it is too late. The yarn must then be transferred to the regular 
bobbins, and much time lost. Considerable waste is also caused 

82 



EMPLOYING HELP 83 

by this in many instances. As long as this practice continues, 
it is advisable for any manufacturer who has commission winding 
and warping done, or who deals with the waste men, to insist upon 
having his own bobbins returned to him, or receiving full value 
for them. 

All bobbins used in the mill should be made to correspond with 
certain standard weights per 100 bobbins, so that the tare can be 
calculated from the count of the bobbins. Any bobbins that find 
their way into the mill, which do not correspond with the mill 
standards, should be immediately and unhesitatingly discarded, 
no matter how good they may be in other respects, as their use 
will invite serious and constantly recurring errors in calculating 
the weight of wound silk. 

Employing Help 

Good judgment and experience are required in engaging 
employees and putting them at the work for which they are best 
fitted, and in managing them while at work. The first thing to 
be considered in an applicant is his appearance. If this is 
favorable, he should be questioned as to his age, former employ- 
ment, and the reason he left his previous position. He should 
also write his name and address. In this way, an opinion may be 
formed, and if it is favorable, the appHcant may be put at work, if 
there is a vacancy; if not, his name and address may be kept for 
future reference. 

There are times when it is necessary to employ beginners. If, 
by chance, the learner has a friend in the same department in 
which he is placed, it will be an advantage for the friend to take 
charge of him. Otherwise, the foreman may be at a loss, as he 
expects more or less trouble in finding an experienced operative 
fitted to take charge of a beginner and show him the work. 

Experienced hands are not always willing to teach, especially 
if they are on piece-work, as they lose more or less time and, con- 
sequently, money, while giving instruction unless they are paid 
in some way for teaching. Those who are working on time, or 
by the day, are more willing to instruct, as they are receiving pay 
for the time thus spent. 



84 MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

It is remarkable what a number of mill hands apply for work 
and claim to be proficient, but, when put to the test, seem to know 
very little, though they claim to have worked at their trade for 
a considerable length of time. The operatives themselves are 
not entirely to blame. The trouble was probably with their 
instructors, who, very possibly, did not know much more than 
those they were teaching, lacked experience, or did not care to 
teach too much. It is very annoying to a foreman to give in- 
structions when his operatives do not know what he means, and 
there are many important things concerning the work that the 
employees should know, but do not know. 

It is a common thing for mill workers who have had plenty 
of experience to be unwilling to teach beginners what they know. 
This is one reason why many so-called experienced operatives 
really do not know enough to be classed as such, and do not under- 
stand what is expected of them by the foreman. 

When placing new help, the foreman should watch closely 
to see how far he can rely upon them. If he finds that they are 
ambitious and industrious, and that there are certain details that 
they do not understand, he should see that they are instructed, 
in order that they may become acquainted with the materials and 
sizes. Operatives should be interested to know what the mate- 
rials are used for, and why, and the way in which they are used. 
It is an advantage for all concerned to know what the work is 
for and how to treat it. A foreman will soon learn that he can 
depend upon his help more and save himself considerable annoy- 
ance if this policy is followed. 

Printed forms of rules and instructions are very valuable in 
these departments. Many times we find operatives who, when 
they begin to work in the mill, are satisfactory for the time being, 
but, when they become better acquainted, are familiar and 
boisterous, and often wish to do things their own way. They are 
under the impression that they know all about the work, and that 
no one else knows anything. Under pretense of being everyone's 
friends, they find out all they can, and then tell all they have 
heard and more, and do many things to cause trouble among the 
employees. 

It is very easy to talk among a number of operatives, and 



EMPLOYING HELP 85 

carry tales about individuals, imagining it is doing no harm, but it 
is usually a dangerous practice, as things are repeated in a very 
different way. It is always better to be careful about talking 
to fellow workers, as a man never can tell who his friend is. 

If, by any chance, such a tale-bearing person gains employ- 
ment, every means should be tried to get rid of him, as there will 
never be either peace or success while he is about. Under no cir- 
cumstances should he be kept, as he is likely to hinder and keep 
away good help by his misconduct. Employees that gossip and 
talk behind one's back, do things they should not, and are not 
willing to obey rules and instructions, cannot be rehed upon and 
are not loyal to their employer. 

It is not always advisable to dismiss undesirable operatives 
too soon, nor for every small thing that is done, however provok- 
ing they may be, especially in a locality where trained and skilled 
help is none too plentiful. Hasty judgments should be avoided 
as much as possible. Patience and even temper are more to be 
cultivated. Operatives should be encouraged to learn and take 
an interest in their work. If a foreman is fair and upright in his 
treatment of those under him, he will find that anyone of common 
sense will pay him back in kind. It is always better to have the 
good will of the operatives than their ill will. During an expe- 
rience of twenty-five years as a foreman, I secured the very 
best service from those under me by using them well, respecting 
their feelings, treating them fairly and impartially, with no favor- 
itism whatever, giving the orders for the work to be done properly 
and not in a dictatorial manner, making them understand that 
we must all work for the interests of the owners, and that, in order 
to do this best, it was necessary for them to do exactly as they were 
told. When obliged to reprimand them for bad work, I explained 
to them the loss that the owners sustained, as a result of their 
neglect or carelessness. If that was of no avail, I had a little con- 
fidential talk with them to make them understand and make good. 

To get the best service from his operatives, it is necessary for 
a foreman to study their dispositions and act accordingly. With 
some a slight reprimand is sufficient; with others, talking has no 
effect whatever. It goes in one ear and out of the other. Then 
it is necessary to use as few words as possible, but have it dis- 



86 MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

tinctly understood that you mean exactly what you say, and in 
most cases this will end the trouble. In this way, a foreman can 
maintain good discipline and have the respect and good will of all 
under him. The most efficient service will be obtained and the 
best interests of his employers conserved. The best results can 
only be obtained when manager, superintenent, foreman and 
operatives work harmoniously together. 

Dismissing Help Temporarily 

There are very few textile mills able to keep all their help and 
machinery working all the year around, a fact that is due in large 
part to the demand for changes of styles for the different seasons, 
causing busy and slack times. When the slack times come, and it 
is necessary to work shorter hours and with less help, it is cus- 
tomary to keep the oldest employees, who have given satisfaction 
and should have the preference, employed as long as possible. It 
is not a pleasant duty to lay off help at such times, but it is only 
fair and right for a foreman to decide whom to dismiss, without 
showing any partiality at any time. 

Complaints 

If, at any time, it is necessary to complain or receive com- 
plaints about the operatives for poor workmanship, mistakes or 
misconduct, the foreman should investigate and locate the real 
cause of the trouble in order to be positive he knows how to act 
and deal with it. No matter who it is, he should have a fair 
chance to explain how and why it happened; then the foreman 
can act according to the nature of the complaint. He should be 
fair, use good judgment and common sense, and treat the case as 
it deserves. If it is a mistake and is shown to have been made 
through a misunderstanding, he must make the best of it. But, if 
poor workmanship and mistakes prove to be due to the careless- 
ness or willfulness of someone, the offender should be made to 
pay the consequences. If there are any cases of disturbances, 
misconduct, or bad behavior among the operatives, do not hes- 
itate to dismiss the guilty ones; otherwise, a well-organized depart- 
ment will be ruined. 



WASTE OF MATERIALS 87 

It does no harm to complain, and in many cases it is a good 
thing, especially when it is a Uttle difficult to locate the cause and 
know whom to censure for the defect. If there is any reason to 
find fault about any poor workmanship, do it in the right man- 
ner. A foreman can usually determine by the excuse given 
whether the operative is at fault or not. Without doubt, there are 
times when a man finds out things he had never dreamed of. Oper- 
atives are often kept from doing good work by the poor workman- 
ship of the previous operative. Winder, warper and quiller oper- 
atives are generally more or less reluctant to find fault with the 
work of previous operations, even when they know they should 
report the defects that are the result of another's carelessness, and 
that hinder them. They know it creates more or less ill feeling 
among themselves, which often ends in their being abusive. With 
all these troubles it is well to give good warning to all operatives 
to be more careful, and it is as well for them to know that all 
defects are not so easily overlooked; otherwise, they would not 
know but the workmanship was perfect and in no need of criti- 
cism for defects. 

Waste of Materials 

There must always be a reasonable allowance made for the 
waste of material in winding, warping and quilling, but if there is 
no proper system installed to keep in touch with it, more waste 
will accumulate than the allowance calls for. To avoid this is a 
difficult problem, as there are many ways in which it may occur. 
Sometimes it is due to shiftless and careless operatives, and is more 
frequent among piece-workers, who are anxious to do all the work 
they can and do not take the time and trouble to be as particular 
and exact as time or day workers would be. There is much 
material torn, cut or destroyed and made into waste that could be 
saved with a Uttle patience. Some operatives are very careless 
and free about the making of waste, as they do not reaUze the 
value of the material they are working with. Then, again, the 
materials are often damaged or spoiled in the previous operation, 
which causes waste to accumulate and which cannot be avoided 
by the best operatives. 

Some manufacturers have a system of keeping account of the 



88 MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

waste by re-weighing the finished work of warper, winder and 
quiller, thus ascertaining whether more waste has been made than 
is necessary and allowed. The operative is called to account for 
this and has to bear the consequences, usually a fine or dismissal. 

The accumulation of too much waste is a difficult matter to 
overcome, and it is not always advisable to be too strict regarding 
the amount made, as it is well known that some operatives, from 
fear of being fined or dismissed for excess waste, will take or hide 
some of it. 

To overcome this as much as possible, the man in charge should 
adopt some system of warning the operatives to be careful, and, 
by watching and collecting the waste every two or three days, 
ascertain which ones are at fault. 

Bags should be attached to the machines for this purpose, 
and operatives should be instructed to put all waste in these 
bags, and not on the floor to be swept out. In this way, there 
will be some information about how much waste is made and com- 
plaint may be made to the operative if too much is found. Each 
one should be made to account for it, and if the excess is found to 
be due to carelessness, the one at fault should be warned to check 
it or bear the consequences. If it is the result of worn machinery, 
this should be attended to as quickly as possible, otherwise waste 
will be bound to accumulate. 

Light 

Poor light is one of the greatest hindrances to success in all 
processes of textile manufacturing. The best daylight, or arti- 
ficial light, obtainable must be furnished in order to obtain good 
results and production from a mill and all its departments. Light 
from overhead, through a sawtooth roof facing the north, has been 
tried and is considered the best light for all mill purposes. It can 
be rehed upon and is more evenly distributed, in addition to which 
the machinery can be placed in an advantageous position to get 
the full benefit of the light. With side windows, the machinery 
must be so placed as to take advantage of the windows. 

More or less artificial light must be used in all mills and there 
are many kinds from which to choose The latest improved elec- 



TO REGULATE WAGES 89 

trie light is none too good, and the best obtainable should be 
installed, especially for silk manufacturing. Experience has 
demonstrated that it is impossible to turn out as perfect work 
with artificial light as it is with good clear daylight. The great 
difference is easily noticed in the change from the summer to the 
winter season, from long to short days, when all mills must use 
artificial light a few hours each day, and, many times, all day. 

On account of the difficult and exacting work that there is to 
be done in silk mills, every operative should wear a dark green 
eye shade to assist and protect the eyes. No matter how young 
and strong the eyesight is, it will do no harm to wear a shade, 
as in time to come it will prove to have saved the eyes. 

It must be borne in mind by using a shade, an object can 
always be seen more distinctly, and that one can accomphsh 
better work on a bright day than is the case on dark days when 
artificial light is necessary. Daylight is the proper light in which 
to match colors and shades, and the matching of colors in strong 
sunhght, or artificial light, should not be attempted, as both are 
unreliable and deceiving. In matching colored skein materials 
the best results can be obtained on a good, clear day, with light 
from the north side. The skeins should be properly straightened 
and smoothed out, then hung up close together, and moved in 
different ways to get the same effect. If there are any differ- 
ences in the shade it can be easily seen, and when they are even, 
one may be satisfied that they are properly matched. 

To match colored yarns wound on bobbins is more diffi- 
cult, as the irregular tension from winding will cause the silk to 
appear to the eye to be of an uneven or different shade. To over- 
come this somewhat, turn the bobbins or quills around in different 
ways toward the light, which will cause them to appear in other 
shades, but it is better to unravel some yarn from the bobbin or 
quill and match the two together to get the desired effect. 

To Regulate Wages 

It would be difficult to advocate the use of a system to regulate 
the wages, as circumstances vary in all mills, and every manu- 
facturer has his own opinion as to what is the best way to pay 



90 MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

wages. For that reason, some pay by the day, others by piece- 
work. In some manufacturing, the work is very plain, simple and 
uniform, therefore, it can easily be arranged to pay one price for 
all work and materials, or to pay by the day. 

The work of other manufacturers is very irregular and compli- 
cated, and, therefore, piece-work wages must be arranged to suit 
the work, which varies according to the different grades or sizes 
of yarns to be wound, warped or quilled. 

Piece-work rates for winding are usually fixed by the skein, 
hank, or weight. For quilling, the weighing system is the surest, 
most convenient and fairest method. For warping, the rates are 
usually per hundred ends for a hundred yards or meters. 

When large dye lots are used from which a number of warps 
can be made with a full set of bobbins on the warp creel, a lower 
rate can be fixed upon than is usual for one warp and small dye 
lots. 

Mills that manufacture all plain goods, and only one kind of 
fabric, and which are in a locality where there is competent and 
reliable help, can easily arrange and establish a schedule of day 
wages that will be satisfactory and fair to employer and employee, 
by planning a system whereby the one in charge knows that each 
person is kept busy and produces a good day's work and earns his 
pay. It is necessary to hold one person responsible for the keep- 
ing of the weighing records and the giving out of work to the oper- 
atives, as it is a rare thing to have employees that work alike and 
turn out the same amount of work, although they all have the same 
kind of work and opportunities. Day workers, as a rule, require 
more watching to see that they do a day's work than piece- 
workers. They generally do so much and no more, and are more 
apt to take their time to do the work. At the same time, they 
keep things in order and usually do not destroy materials or make 
more waste than allowed. But they should do exactly as ordered. 
They are not so willing and ambitious to produce the quantity 
of work that they would be if on piece-work. 

With piece-work, it is more difficult to establish a fair and satis- 
factory price for either employers or employees, as circumstances 
vary so greatly, and the rate depends largely upon what is being 
manufactured. A method to establish piece-work prices is usually 



ARRANGING MACHINERY 



91 



based upon the rate for day work. For example, take an average* 
of the amount of work a few good day workers will turn out in 
two or three days; from this amount, the piece-work prices are 
determined, after a fair and suitable percentage is deducted from 
it. Piece-work inspires more ambition to hurry and earn as much 
as possible, consequently a greater production is derived therefrom. 
But piece-workers are more apt to be careless with their work 
and need constant watching to prevent them from making more 
waste than is allowed. They are also usually not so particular 




Fig. 18. — Heavy Fancy Shaft. Harness Loom. 



concerning the cleanliness and order of their work, and allow 
waste to accumulate on the floor and leave it on the bobbins and 
quills. 

Arranging Machinery 

Satisfactory machinery layouts are not obtained without 
considerable study. Assuming that the amount of machinery 
to be used is known, there are many other details that affect the 
arrangement. The entire equipment should be decided upon, 
including tables, shelves, closets, drawers, racks, partitions, etc., 



92 



MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 




Fig. 19. — Jacquard Silk Loom with Motor Drive. 



PLAN FOR MACHINERY FLOOR SPACE 



93 



before the machinery is placed. Then a plan for the whole room 
may be made. 

Plan for Machinery Floor Space 

The following has proved to be an ideal method for deciding 
the simplest and best way of placing machinery, tables and shelves 
on the floor space. 

Take a sheet of paper to represent the floor space, and make a 
scale of a quarter or half inch to a foot. Cut a piece of cardboard 




Fig. 20.— Skein Reel, with Single Fly. 



for each piece of machinery, table and shelf to be placed, and 
measure each. Thus, the pieces of cardboard represent the 
machinery and can be placed upon the paper representing the 
floor, to the best advantage as regards space pulleys, shafting and 
light. By doing this, everything is planned on the paper before 
the machinery is actually placed, thereby securing the best position 
for each piece. As there are many different kinds of machinery, 
requiring various amounts of floor space, it is difficult to place 



94 MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 

winding, warping or quilling machines in such a way as not to 
waste floor space and yet have sufficient room for the use of 
aisles, etc. Placing machinery on a floor before trying a plan 
Hke this, may turn out to be wrong, and a costly mistake. 

Repairs 

Some machinery repairs should be made in the mill, while 
others should be made outside. Just wjiere should the line be 
drawn? The answer to this depends upon the size of the mill 
and whether there is a machine shop near. Small mills usually 
have a very limited supply of machinery equipment and tools, and 
find it advisable to have nearly all repair work done outside. The 
mills that are neither large nor small are those that most fre- 
quently waste time and money by sending repair work out when 
they could probably do it as well themselves. Men in their em- 
ploy could do the work as satisfactorily and quickly as men in the 
machine shop if they had the necessary equipment, and, by having 
the work done in the mill, a profit would be saved that would 
otherwise go outside. The ability to repair machinery in the mill's 
own shop often saves valuable time. Idle machinery may inter- 
fere with the mill's production, and, if time is taken to replace the 
broken parts by sending to the machinery makers, several days 
may elapse before things can be running in the normal way again. 
Often, the broken parts can be repaired at the mill as well, and 
little time will be lost on account of the accident. To be sure, new 
parts may be needed, and the repairs made will be only a make- 
shift, but, even in this case, it may mean a saving of considerable 
trouble and many dollars. There are many reasons why the 
mechanical end of a textile mill should be in charge of a reHable, 
all-around man, who is well paid and who understands engineering. 
The importance of making repairs quickly, properly, and econom- 
ically, is a strong argument in favor of this arrangement. 

Some inexperienced mill hands will repair machinery in a slip- 
shod manner, for the time being, by tying the broken parts with 
cord and ropes, instead of using the proper appliances. This is 
not good mechanics and often proves disastrous. It is better to 
repair the machine in the right way, if possible; if not, leave it 
until the work can be done properly. 



SUPPLIES NEEDED 95 

All machinery, gear wheels, pulleys, and belts, that are dan- 
gerous, should be covered to avoid accidents. No passageways 
should be obstructed. All female operatives should be compelled 
to wear a suitable head covering, like a gauze or net cap, to keep 
the hair from flying about and catching on belts or in machinery. 

Supplies Needed 

It is very important, and pays in the end, to have a good supply 
of all articles that are needed in the departments. The list in- 
cludes belt lacings or hooks, bobbins, quills, edge bobbins, beaming, 
tissue and wrapping paper, cord, banding, swift spokes for repair- 
ing, swift braces, wooden and iron winder spindles, waste bags, 
cloth coverings, warping reeds, cut-mark paints, chalk, emery 
cloth, sand-paper, waste for cleaning, brushes, brooms, soap, 
towels, machine oil, belt grease, oiling cans, benzine, mill boxes 
and baskets, scales, scissors, reed hooks, measuring rulers, pins, 
carpet tacks, porcelain guides, shellac, glass reeds, wrenches, 
hammers, screw-drivers, pulleys, belt punches, tension weights, 
writing paper, etc. 

A supply of all tools that the operatives require should be kept 
in stock and furnished them at cost. 

Tracing Oil Spots 

Sometimes oil is found dropping from the machines and 
spreading on the materials, but it is very hard to locate the place 
from which it comes. If there is any suspicion of the source, lay 
or hang a piece of paper on the machine at the place where the oil 
is believed to drop, and, if there is any, it can readily be seen on 
the paper. 

Luncheon 

It is a poor policy to allow the operatives to have luncheon 
in working hours, as they gather together and take advantage of 
the opportunity to visit and talk among themselves. In this way, 
they lose considerable time, and seem to forget that the power is 
on and the machinery running for nothing. If it is necessary for 
anyone to eat during working hours, he can lunch and, at the same 



96 



MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 



time, keep his work and machine going, provided he is very careful 
not to soil the work with his hands. 

Sweeping 

All operatives should be instructed to be careful when sweeping 
the floor. Everything that has any value should be picked up and 
taken care of, especially such articles as bobbins, quills, screws, 
nuts, washers, small weights and parts of machinery, also waste 
material. 

Table of Bobbin Weights 

The following table of bobbin weights has often proved to be 
serviceable and convenient when it was necessary to use it for 
weighing wound materials. For example, mark the weight of each- 
number of bobbins and quills, from one to one hundred, on a good- 
sized sheet of paper in the way prescribed here for a given number 
of bobbins and quills: 



No. of 
Bobbins. 


Lbs. Oz. Drs, 


No. of 
Bobbins. 


Lbs. 


Oz. 


Drs 


1 


2 4 


100 


14 


2 


5 


2 


4 8 


200 


28 


4 


10 


3 


6 12 


300 


42 


6 


12 


4 


9 1 


400 


56 


9 


4 


5 


11 5 


500 


70 


11 


8 


And so on until 100 is reached. 


600 


84 


13 


4 






700 


99 





3 






800 


113 


2 


8 






900 


127 


4 


13 






1000 


141 


7 






To make this table of weights may seem difficult. It will 
certainly take time to do it, but the convenience and time saved 
are worth the trouble and when used it will prove its value many 
times. Often, when it is found necessary in these departments to 
take the weight of materials wound on bobbins and quills, this 
method will be found to be convenient, simple, quick and reliable, 
especially when taking inventory. When large quantities of bob- 
bins and quills are to be weighed, a special box or basket should 
be used for weighing only, and it would be better if the box weighed 



BOOK SYSTEMS 97 

about 5 or 10 pounds, as such a number is easier to deduct from 
the gross weight, thus avoiding trouble and mistakes. 

Book Systems 

As circumstances and conditions vary so much, it would 
hardly be advisable to advocate any definite system for booking 
and charging the stock accounts of materials, or filling out the 
warp tickets, and recording the work, in general, of these depart- 
ments. No matter what the system is supposed to be, it must be 
the method best suited to the management and circumstances. 

It may be advisable to use a loose-leaf or card system. This 
can be recommended as being the most reliable and systematic 
method of keeping records and accounts of stock and materials 
in connection with the warp-order tickets and book. 

Yard and Meter Measure 

Metric measures are frequently used with the yard measure in 
silk warping, some mills having only the Swiss warping machines, 
while others have only the horizontal, and still others have both. 

Usually, the Swiss machine runs on the metric system, and the 
horizontal on the yard measure. Operatives are often found who 
do not understand the difference between yards and meters. This 
should be fully explained to them. The meter is about 9f per 
cent longer than the yard, and (as being very convenient) ten 
meters is counted as equalling 11 yards, and 100 meters as 110 
yards, this being an assumed difference of 10 per cent, which, of 
course, is not accurate. 

Dining, Dressing, and Emergency Rooms 

A factory employing both sexes, and having space enough, 
should furnish a room, or wardrobes, for the employees' clothing, 
and a dining room. There should also be a convenient and com- 
fortable room, with a medicine chest, to be used in case of acci- 
dents or sickness, so that suffering employees may be made com- 
fortable and be properly treated. If there is no such room, an 
operative who becomes sick is usually stretched on the floor until 



98 



MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS 



sufficiently revived to go home. This generally causes consider- 
able excitement and disturbance among the other operatives, and 
a consequent unnecessary loss of time. 



Changing One's Position 

A foreman changing his place in order to obtain a better posi- 
tion, often finds conditions in his new mill very different from those 
he has left. He may have a good record for experience, and may 
have understood his business thoroughly in the place he has left, 
but he will feel very strange in his new surroundings. He may 
wish to make a number of changes, but if he attempts too much at 
once he will find himself in a great deal of trouble. He must work 
slowly and become acquainted with his new environment, as he 
will, no doubt, wonder at the way things are managed. Changing 
things slowly in order to make them fit his ideas will naturally 
benefit him as well as his employer. No one has had experience 
enough to know all there is to know about textile manufacturing, 
but the more a man goes from mill to mill, the more he will learn. 



CHAPTER VI 
REMINDERS, DUTIES AND RULES 

A Few Reminders for Inventory 

All mills take inventory at least once a year and everyone has 
his own opinion about the proper way to do it. Two inventories 
are seldom taken alike; in some mills it is not even taken in the 
same way two years in succession, owing, no doubt, to the changes 
that take place, bringing different ideas to those in charge of the 
mill and of its different departments. 

Stock taking does not occur often enough in mills to enable 
anyone to decide when it is correctly done. It is always necessary 
to take stock quickly and accurately, and, should the one in charge 
have suitable assistance, he should see that all are properly in- 
structed, or each will have a method of his own, which may prove 
disastrous. 

The importance of counting, weighing and listing the materials 
at inventory cannot be over-estimated. Care should be taken to 
avoid mistakes when counting the bobbins and quills, and also to 
count by fives, otherwise mistakes are apt to occur. When weigh- 
ing wound materials in boxes or baskets, the receptacles should 
be of even weight, say 3, 5, or 10 pounds, and the weight should be 
plainly marked on the box or basket, so that the same weight is 
used at all times. 

For listing and booking the weighed materials, a fair sized loose- 
leaf book is best, properly ruled and headed for the different sizes 
of materials. The loose-leaf book will be found to be more con- 
venient and safe than sheets and sHps of paper, as they are apt to 
get mislaid. 

The following are a few reminders that are useful when inven- 
tory time is approaching, and which should be kept on file for 
reference, in order to have the same system each time when taking 
stock. 

99 



100 REMINDERS, DUTIES AND RULES 

1. Books and sheets should be ruled and headed for the dif- 
ferent materials. 

2. Typewritten sUps should be prepared for entry of weights 
and number of wound bobbins and quills. 

3. Lot tickets should be in plain sight on all material in shelves 
boxes, baskets or drawers. 

4. All assistants needed should be engaged a few days before 
the time. 

5. All assistants should be instructed to count bobbins and 
quills by fives, instead of any way it happens. This way is easier, 
quicker and more reliable, and avoids mistakes. 

6. Assistants should be instructed how to mark the number of 
bobbins or quills on the slips. 

7. They should also be shown how to use the scales and how 
to mark the weights when weighing the different materials. 

Important Duties of a Foreman 

L He should be present at least five minutes before starting 
time, both morning and noon, and should be the last to leave at 
stopping time. 

2. He should see to the lighting, heating and ventilating of the 
department. 

3. He should start the power, and see that all machinery is 
running properly. 

4. He should have all operatives on time in their proper 
places, ready to begin, and keep them supplied with work. 

5. He should see that the floors and windows are properly 
cleaned. There should be a general cleaning of machinery once 
a week, and it should be oiled at least twice a week, 

6. He should allow no bobbins, quills, or waste on the floor. 

7. He should insist that all operatives maintain order and obey 
all rules and instructions; also that they give due attention to 
their work in all its details, in order to turn out a perfect product. 

8. He should have all materials properly taken care of and put 
in the right places. 

9. He should see that all orders from other departments are 
promptly attended to. 



RULES AND REGULATIONS 101 

10. He should keep a record of the time of the operatives and 
an account of the materials. 

Rules and Regulations 

Printed rules and instructions, similar to those following, will 
prove to be of great value in these branches of work in every textile 
mill. Every employee should be supplied with a copy of these 
rules, that he may become familiar with the part that concerns 
himself and his work. This will greatly assist him in understanding 
and at the same time will instruct him as to what is the quickest 
and easiest way of doing the work. Then, there will be no excuse 
for the operative not to follow instructions and obey rules. In 
this way, both the man in charge and his employer will know that 
the operatives have the required information about their work. 

In connection with the rules, a notice, printed in large type, 
should be placed where it can be readily seen, and should read 
somewhat as follows: 

'' All employees are required to read these instructions and 
follow the rules laid down. 

(Signed) 

The Rules 

1. All winder, warper and quiller operatives will receive mate- 
rial, ticket and lot nmnber at their machines, with instructions 
how to treat the same. Tickets must be examined in order to 
avoid mixing lots and making other mistakes. Tickets should 
not be mutilated nor destroyed, but always kept in plain sight. 
Winder operatives should use only wooden-pulley spindles for 
winding silk and fine yarns, and iron ones for coarse yarns. Only 
clean bobbins should be used and they should not be cut with a 
knife nor scissors, as these will damage the bobbins. They should 
be cleaned with sandpaper, in order to clean them and keep them 
smooth. The tension weights should always be even, and they 
should be changed according to the different sizes of the yarn, so 
that the yarn is not wound too hard nor too soft. Every bobbin 
should have strict attention, so that all will be even and uniform, 
with no waste nor lapped ends on them. Winder operatives, when 



102 REMINDERS, DUTIES AND RULES 

winding small lots of yarn, should always find out the number of 
bobbins the lot is to be wound upon. Scissors should be used to 
cut off the ends, after making good knots. After tying all knots, 
the ends must not be cut off shorter than | inch and not longer than 
J inch. Special cross knots must be made on all mercerized warp 
cotton, extra care being taken when winding white to turn in good 
clean work. No waste, spindles nor bobbins should be allowed to 
lie on the floor. 

2. All imperfections in materials should be reported to the 
foremen when winding, for example, dirt, unevenness, lumpiness, 
ends, split ends, weak or shady colors. No skeins should be cut 
off nor destroyed. All waste should be saved and put in the bags 
kept in place for that purpose. 

3. A great deal of unnecessary trouble and damage is caused 
to warpers', doublers', quillers' and weavers' work, as well as to 
the woven cloth, by letting loose ends, threads, and waste run on 
the bobbins and quills. This generally comes from the careless- 
ness of the winder operatives in allowing waste and cut-off ends 
to accumulate on their clothing. Operatives should be careful 
about this unnecessary evil, and keep their clothing free from 
waste. If they do this, it cannot catch and run in on the bobbins 
and quills when winding. 

4. All warper operatives should read over the warp order and 
the warp ticket carefully before tying up the ends on the creel, to 
see that the material, color, number and lot number to be used to 
make the warp correspond with the warp ticket. When two lots of 
the same shade and material are used in a warp, both lots should 
be examined, and, if any unevenness in color is noticed in the 
first section, it should be reported. 

5. No waste nor dirt should be allowed on the creel. Some 
other warper operative should always count the number of ends 
and bobbins before starting to run them on the reel, in order to 
see whether the ends are to run in a single or double cross-reed. 

6. Before starting a warp, Swiss-warper operatives should 
always call the foreman's attention to the elevation irons on the 
reel, to see if they are set right for the warp that is to be made, 
and observe if the measuring dial is set right for the length of the 
warp, corresponding with the warp ticket. Some other warper 



THE RULES 103 

operative should always see that the cut marks, made with colored 
string, painted and covered with paper, are put on a few ends of 
the first section or band in exactly the right place. 

7. All sections or bands, when started on white warps, should be 
kept moving to avoid dusty and soiled sections, and none should 
be allowed to stand unfinished after the power is off. All warps 
should be covered properly before they are left at noon and night. 
All work should be made good and clean, with good knots and 
special cross knots on all mercerized cotton. All empty bobbins 
should be cleaned, using only sandpaper to keep them smooth and 
free from waste. 

8. To verify the width, the first section, or band, should always 
be measured after reeding, before starting to run in on the reel, 
and from this should be figured out the required width for the 
warp. The width of the warp should always be measured when 
finished. 

9. On all partly finished warps, if some of the ends have been 
cut down, the number of finished ends should be marked on the 
back of the warp ticket before leaving at noon or night. This is 
absolutely necessary in order to avoid misunderstanding if an 
operative is absent from work. 

10. The condition of all warp materials should be reported to 
the foreman. This inchidos bad winding, dirt, lumps, spHt ends, 
uneven ends, weak or shad} colors. No material should be taken 
from the winder operatives, nor should two or more lots be mixed 
in a warp, without proper instructions. The lot tickets should 
always be kept in plain sight and neither mutilated nor destroyed. 

11. Doubler operatives should pay strict attention to their 
work and follow instructions, seeing that all bobbins are running 
evenly and uniformly, and with the necessary tension to make good, 
clean work. They should report all imperfections in work and 
material. Empty bobbins should be cleaned, using only sand- 
paper to keep them smooth and free from waste. 

12. Quiller operatives should also pay strict attention to their 
work and follow instructions. Special care should be taken when 
starting up a quill to get the end in firmly, in order to avoid run- 
ning over into the groove of the quill. All the tension weights 
should be even, and they should be changed as required for the 



104 REMINDERS, DUTIES AND RULES 

different sizes of material, so that the quills will be neither too 
hard nor too soft. When white or light colors are being used, 
special attention should be paid to keeping the material clean. 
Scissors should be used to cut off the ends when knots are made. 
The knot should be run on the outside of the quill, so that the 
end will run off freely from the shuttle when it is weaving in the 
loom. When using flyers, the end that runs off the spool or bob- 
bin and passes through the flyer guide should turn from right to 
left, so as to make the required twist in the yarn when it is used 
in weaving. Empty bobbins should be cleaned, using only the 
sandpaper, as usual. Quiller operatives should clean their ma- 
chines every day before starting work at 7 a.m. and 1 p.m. 

13. Weavers should be requested to notify the Quilling and 
Filling Department when receiving a board of filHng whether there 
is enough to finish the cut, and when bringing the board to the 
QuilUng and Filling Department, after the piece is finished, should 
wait until the board is emptied. The board should be returned 
to the loom. 

14. Board-fillers should see that the weavers are supplied 
with the filling required by their loom order, and should be very 
exact in giving out the right material, so that the lot numbers, 
colors and sizes correspond with the order ticket. The lot number 
is the surest guide to accuracy and must never be overlooked, as 
the sHghtest error on the board-filler's part may cause many yards 
of fabric to be woven wrong, involving great loss. Any misconduct 
on the part of the weavers should be reported, also any imperfect 
work, or unevenness of shade. Instructions should be followed 
as given. The department should be kept clean and in good 
order. No waste should be allowed to hang on the fixtures, and 
quills and waste should be kept off the floor. 

15. All employees should be in their places promptly at 7 a.m. 
and 1 P.M. and no time should be wasted in singing, unnecessary 
talking or stopping to eat lunch, until the whistle blows at 12 
and 6 o'clcok. Those who remain in the mill during the noon 
hour should maintain order and stay in their own departments. 
Hats and coats should be kept in the dressing room. Anyone 
leaving the mill during working hours should have a pass to be 
furnished by the foreman. Anyone who is absent from work 



THE RULES 105 

through illness, or any other cause, should notify the foreman at 
once, or run the risk of losing his or her position. No one can 
receive pay for unfinished piece work. When an employee is 
vmable to receive his pay personally, and requests another to re- 
ceive it for him, he should give his representative a written order, 
signed by himself. All injuries caused by accidents at work 
should be reported at once. Employees leaving their work or 
position without giving three days' notice will risk the forfeiture 
of their pay. 

16. The power will stop every Saturday one-quarter of an hour 
before the whistle blows at 12 o'clock, to allow for cleaning the 
machinery. In order to avoid accidents, no machinery may be 
cleaned while running. Employees will not receive their pay until 
their places and machinery are thoroughly cleaned, and have been 
inspected and passed by the foreman. All machinery should be 
oiled every Monday and Thursday morning. 

17. All employees should give strict attention to their work, 
follow instructions, and obey the above rules. Those making 
mistakes or injuring the work through carelessness and neglect 
will be subject to a fine." 



CHAPTER VII 
DEFECTS AND THEIR CAUSES 

Defective Fabrics 

Volumes could be written upon the subject of imperfect fabrics, 
and the defects that arise from the different processes before and 
during weaving. In touching upon this subject, the intention is 
to advise rather than to criticise, the object being to impress upon 
the reader's mind the fact that none of the processes are immune 
from defects caused by poor workmanship. There is also much 
that can be said and done about yarns before they are subjected 
to the processes of winding, warping and quilling. Good weaving 
depends greatly upon the workmanship of every previous process. 
From the beginning of the material going into the yarn, through 
the extensive operations before it reaches the loom, every process 
has its bearing on the quality of the woven fabric. 

It is the aim of every mill owner to produce perfect fabrics, as 
far as possible, but this cannot always be done. One of the great- 
est problems of the textile industry is the prevention and over- 
coming of defects. It is admitted by all in the field that no one 
person possesses sufficient information and experience to recognize 
and solve each and every problem that arises in manufacturing. 
The number of ways in which yarns and warps may be injured by 
mechanical action during the different stages of manufacture, are 
so great that it would be impossible for any one person to describe 
all the causes of imperfections in all kinds of fabrics. There are 
often defects in the various processes that the yarn passes through 
that cannot be discovered without thorough tests, chemical and 
physical, and the use of the microscope. Yet many of these 
defects can be readily seen when woven into some of the fine, 
plain fabrics. 

106 



DEFECTIVE FABRICS 107 

It is impossible to make a good fabric from a poor grade of 
yarn, although a good deal of it is used, and for some classes of 
goods it does very well. All mills produce some imperfect fabrics 
and a large part is due to mistakes in the selection of material, 
faulty yarn structure, inefficient machinery, poor workmanship, 
carelessness on the part of the working staff, and last, but not 
least, to theoretical instead of practical managers. 

What is lacking many times is good judgment, and the quaUty 
of mind that enables one to face difficulties and overcome them in 
the best possible way. Even with experience in detecting defects 
in fabrics at every stage in their production, there are sometimes 
apparently insurmountable difficulties. Defects arise from causes 
so nearly ahke that no expert could tell the cause unless he knew 
in advance where the trouble lay. A defect is, therefore, many 
times traced to one thing, when it is, in reality, due to something 
quite different. 

Another point to be noted is that it is frequently easy to locate 
the cause of a defect, but difficult to prevent it or guard against 
its recurrence. Anyone engaged in the weaving process (or any 
other, for that matter) should study his work. Although many 
operatives in this department have some idea of the principles and 
details of the work, weavers, loom-fixers and others, in general, 
seem to consider that the loom does the work and that their duty 
is only to watch it run. But much more is required if good work 
is to be produced, passed by the examiner, and delivered to the 
owner in such a condition that he can expect the full price for his 
goods, and not fear having to sell at a loss. 

It may be assumed that the weavers are women, though they 
are no worse than the men in the matter of carelessness. In either 
case, there are many details for weavers and loom-fixers to con- 
sider. It is the duty of the weaver to study every fit tie point and 
have every apparently trifling matter corrected before proceeding 
with the work. In one way or another, the ends from the warp 
may break down and go wrong, and, consequently, the warp is 
frequently condemned when there is nothing the matter with it. 
The fault may be in the setting of the loom, or due to some other 
cause. The weaver goes on tying the ends up, thereby necessarily 
marring the warp, blaming it for all the trouble, and weaving a 



108 DEFECTS AND THEIR CAUSES 

defective piece of goods that she herself would not buy from a bar- 
gain counter at a sale. At the same time, a warp from the same 
yarn, and same warper, weaving the same pattern, may be going 
all right on another loom. Observance of the foregoing sugges- 
tions will facilitate the remedying of such evils. 

An intelligent weaver, if properly directed by the loom-fixer, 
will soon notice these details and save trouble for both. Few 
loom-fixers realize their responsibility. It should be the loom- 
fixer's duty to see that every weaver not only knows her work, 
but attends to it properly and reports to him the slightest trouble 
in the working of the loom. He can then correct it immediately. 

Every new style of goods coming to the loom should be care- 
fully considered, that the loom-fixer may know exactly how to set 
the loom so it will weave to the best advantage, and to discover, 
also, if it should start up badly, what the probable cause is. 

The following are some of the numerous evils and damages, 
though by no means all, that the manufacturer and operatives 
have to watch for and contend with, found in the different processes 
of manufacturing fabrics: 

Raw Silk and Silk-Throwing Defects 

Uneven size, irregular, hard, soft or corkscrew twist, broken 
fibers, nibs, knots, double ends, waste or improper tension, will 
cause fine and coarse streaks in both warp and filling. 

Other Yam Spinning Defects 

Uneven size, a hard, soft or uneven twist, kinked or looped 
threads, slubs, lumps, specks, cotton-seed hulls, or hairy yarn 
will cause imperfect cloth. 

Dyeing Defects 

Unevenness of snade, dirty or oily spots, hairy yarn, over- 
weighting, imperfect chemical treatment, rough handling, arti- 
ficial lustring, will all cause defects and damages due to faulty 
dyeing operations. 



SKEIN AND QUILL-WINDING DEFECTS 109 

Skein and Quill-winding Defects 

Very hard- and soft-wound threads in the warp will show 
streaks lengthwise. 

Threads will carry dust, lint, and flying fibers that accumulate 
around the machinery, into the yarn, and also into light-colored 
woven fabrics, causing defects. 

Soiled and perspiring hands tying knots make dirty spots and 
streaks that cannot be removed by any known method. 

Cracked and worn guides scrape, damage, fray and roughen 
the threads, causing streaks. 

Dyed yarns, too long exposed to the light, will cause uneven 
and shady streaks. 

New and old dye lots of yarn in the skein, or wound bobbins, 
carelessly handled and mixed, will cause very bad streaks in warp 
or weft. 

Too hard quilHng will crack and spHt fine yarn and produce 
hairy fabrics. 

Too soft quilling will cause the filUng to snarl and break, will 
make uneven places, and cause fioats, waste and smashes. 

Bobbins or quills, containing light-colored yarn, if not kept 
clean, will collect dust, oil spots, water spots, etc., that will make 
marks in the cloth. 

Cotton, wool, silk or other yarns, wound in close proximity to 
each other, will often absorb hnt and other flying particles, and 
show specks in the goods. 

Warping Defects 

Worn, damaged, rusty or soiled reeds will cut, scratch and fray 
the yarn and make dirty streaks and marks. 

The improper mixing of new and old lots will make streaky 
warps. 

Inaccuracy in spacing sections will cause warp streaks from 
opened and lapped sections, commonly called section marks. 

Slack beaming will cause rough appearing fabrics. 

Bobbins wound too hard by one winder and too soft by another, 
and not properly mixed on the creel, are very apt to show in some 
fabrics. 



110 DEFECTS AND THEIR CAUSES 

Dust settling on unfinished sections will show dirty stripes on 
light colors. 
I Threads tied too tightly or too loosely will show streaks. 

Too many smashes tied in a small space will show a rough place 
from so many knots. 

Soiled beaming paper will spot the warp. 

Loom and Weaving Defects 

The twisting and sticking of yarns at the cross rods will cause 
light streaks and floats. 

Extreme cold and damp in the weaving room will effect various 
parts of the loom machinery and harness, and it is out of the 
question to work in such an atmosphere, and weave perfect fabrics. 

A damaged reed with rough, rusty, bent and worn blades will 
cause streaky, dirty and imperfect fabrics. 

Too much, or improper, oiling of machinery will cause dirty 
oil spots and streaks. 

Dirt, fiber and lint from the harness, or Jacquard machine, 
will cause dirty spots and streaks. 

Stopping over night is apt to make reed and harness marks 
in white and light fabrics, owing to dust settling, and the strain 
of the shed left open in the harness. 

Any end wrongly drawn in the harness or crossed in the reed 
will cause streaks. 

Many ends broken, from various causes (commonly called 
'smashes), and pieced out with many knots will cause bad places. 

Cut lieddle eyes in the harness will fray and split the warp ends 
and make fine streaks. 

The loom working irregularly or out of time will produce im- 
perfect fabric. 

The filling-stop motion being out of order will cause streaky 
marks from broken picks of filling. 

If the take-up motion does not work right, it will produce thick 
and thin places, broken or miss-picks in the weft will make empty 
streaks crosswise, and two picks in a shed will make a heavy streak 
across the fabric. 

Uneven doubling in filHng yarns, uneven shuttle tension, or 
too tight selvages will produce cockled effects. 



MISCELLANEOUS DEFECTS 111 

Dirty shuttles will mark the fabric crosswise. 

Skipped and crossed ends in the harness will cause thin streaks 
in the fabric lengthwise. 

Trifling mistakes in designing and card-cutting, and in the 
harness, cause imperfections, and are sometimes not discovered 
till many yards are woven. 

Too tight, too loose, or uneven, tension weights, on weaves 
that require two or more beams for the warp, will produce an 
uneven and rough appearing fabric. 

Joining marks are caused by an improper setting of the take-up 
motion after picking out bad spots. 

Moistening the fingers, or using rosin or glue to stick rough 
ends together, will cause dirty places in most goods. 

Wax, or other preparations, used to dress or size skein-dyed 
warps, will ruin many fabrics. 

Miscellaneous Defects 

The use of the wrong quality or size of yarn in constructing 
fancies will produce defects, such as thick and thin places, cock- 
Hng, grinning colors, loose and long floats, specks, streaks, etc. 

Poor designing and combining of weaves makes faulty cloth. 

Placing a warp on the wrong kind of loom will often develop 
very mysterious defects. 

Lack of knowledge in arranging the proper counts, harness 
drafts, box chains, picks, etc., will result in an imperfect fabric, 
provided it can be woven at all. 

Uneven, too slow, or too fast, speed in the power will result in 
defective work. 

A loom will weave imperfectly if it does not stand firm and solid. 

Poor light allows many defects to occur that might otherwise 
be detected and prevented. 

Old or defective machinery is responsible for many imperfec- 
tions that would never occur otherwise. 

Efficient Mill Administration 

In concluding this manual, the author wishes to say that a mill 
that is correctly organized should be able to account for every 



112 DEFECTS AND THEIR CAUSES 

pound of stock in the mill, cloth, waste, etc. A mill faiHng in this 
has not reached the highest point as an organization. To attain 
these conditions all heads of departments should be methodical, 
systematic men who do nothing by guesswork, but who know and 
appreciate the value of details. Men of this class will see that the 
facilities provided are as complete as possible, so that the max- 
imum production may be obtained by the best help. 

In preparing this work, the constant endeavor has been to see 
the matter from the reader's standpoint, and to endeavor to antici- 
pate everything that might cause him trouble. 

It is a recognized rule that the help that gives the largest pro- 
duction should invariably give the best. Encouraging this class 
of help will prove an incentive to the less efficient. On this basis, 
both quantity and quality of production are more easily obtained. 

One feature in the development of scientific methods is the estab- 
lishment of technical Ubraries by textile mills, free access to the 
books being accorded the operatives. The latest and best works, 
on all subjects of interest and value to the mill, are placed before 
the operatives. Printed information regarding their work, coupled 
with explanations and diagrams, is welcomed by the workers, 
as the best way to make explanations clear is to give pictures or 
diagrams in connection with them. 

Thus, when new problems are brought up for solution, the oper- 
atives have the advantage of being able to read up on the subject, 
and combine the knowledge thus obtained with their practical 
experience in the mill. When the heavy losses that frequently 
result from ignorance of some technical details of textile work are 
considered, it becomes evident that no textile mill can afford to 
neglect placing before its employees the best and latest books on 
textile manufacturing. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN THE PROCESSES 
OF WARPING, WINDING, QUILLING, ETC. 

The writer, believing that it will be 'of interest and assistance to the 
reader, has carefully compiled the following list of the various terms most 
often used in connection with these processes. 

Anchor Bobbin. A large bobbin having flanged heads, which are 
grooved to hold tension cords. Used to wind the edge or selvage upon. 

Artificial Silk. A very lustrous, manufactured, textile fiber made 
from gummy solutions of cellulose expressed through capillaries into fine 
filaments which are subsequently solidified and combined. 

Back Reed. A reed placed in a loom behind the regular reed and 
made of a frame carrying movable wires, or threads, which helps to sepa- 
rate the warp threads and to keep back lint, etc. (Also known as false 
reed.) 

Ball Warps. Warps which, after being wound on the warping mill, 
are bunched together in rope shape and wound up in a ball, or similar 
form. Cotton warps are frequently handled in this way. 

Band. The group, or series, of threads running from the creel, 
through the cross-reed and space-reed, and wound upon the reel. (See 
Section.) 

Banking-up. Arranging, in their proper places, the bobbins on a 
warp creel. (See Tying-up.) 

Beam. A cylindrical wooden roll, having an iron pin, or gudgeon, in 
each end. Used to wind the finished warp upon. Usuahy, on each end 
of a warp beam, is an iron head for tension ropes to ride upon, though 
many beams simply have grooved places cut in the wood. (See Flange- 
head Beam.) 

Beam Apron. A coarse, strong cloth, one end of which is attached 
to the beam, the other end hemmed, and slit at intervals, and an iron rod 
passed through, to which the warp is tied for beaming, 

Beamer. The operator of a beaming machine. 

Beaming. The operation of unwinding a finished warp off from the 
reel onto a beam. 

Beaming Machine. Strongly made, heavy, iron, power-driven 
machine, used for beaming warps. 

113 






114 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

Beaming Paper. A strong, heavy paper used in beaming to protect 
and hold in place, the warp on the beam. Sheets of it are wound on with 
the warp as the beaming proceeds. 

Beam Rack. A strong frame of iron, or wood, in which to keep empty 
beams and beams containing finished warps. 

Beam Truck. A small, low, heavy, two-wheeled truck, V-shaped at 
top, on which warps ready for weaving are wheeled to the looms. 

Bearing. A support for shafts, spindles, swifts, etc. 

Belt Shifter. A fork-shaped iron, attached to a machine, to move the 
driving belt from one pulley to another, to start or stop a machine. 

Board-filler. An employee, generally an experienced quiller, who fills 
the quill boards for weavers. 

Bobbin. A cylindrical piece of wood, with a head on each end, bored 
through to receive an iron pin. Used to wind thread upon. Fiber head, 
and iron head, bobbins are largely used. (See Spool.) 

Bobbin Pins. Rows of iron pins on the warping creel, and on 
doublers and other machines, to hold the bobbins while running. 

Bobbin Stops for Winding Frame. Small, adjustable iron brackets, 
attached to a winding machine, directly under the spindles which sustain 
the bobbins. Used to automatically stop the bobbins when full. 

BoJled-off Silk. Undj^ed thrown-silk with the gum boiled out. 

Boiling-off. The removal of the natural gum from silk goods or yarns 
by boiling in soap and water. (Same as Degumming.) 

Bone Pick. A tapered, smooth bone, about 3 to 5 inches long, used 
to separate sections and find lost ends while warping. (See Pick-bone.) 

Book. Bales of Asiatic silks are made up of smaller parcels called 
books. 

Box. Receptacle in a loom into which the shuttle enters when it 
crosses. 

Box Loom. A loom with more than one box on one or both sides. 

Brake Strap. A rope or strap, arranged with tension weight, to con- 
•trol and steady the reel while warping on the horizontal warping machine. 

Bright Silk. A name applied to thrown silk completely boiled-off 
and dyed. 

Bundle. Several rolls of yarn, each containing a number of skeins, 
tied together. 

Carriage. The movable, sliding, frame or device on a warping ma- 
chine, which carries the reeds and section rollers. 

Carriage Table. The board which forms the bottom of the car- 
riage. 

Carriage Wire Hooks. Hooked, bent wires, attached to the car- 
riage, for supporting threads while adjusting broken or lost threads. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 115 

Catch-cord. A strong cord used on the edges of the cloth while 
weaving, to prevent the filling from pulling in or cutting the edges. 

Caterpillar. A thread, part of which breaks and curls around the 
unbroken part in the shape of a caterpillar, caused by a weak spot in the 
thread catching in a guider eye or reed. 

Chain Warp. A warp which is unwound from the warping mill in 
rope form and then looped into chain form for convenience in shipping. 
Cotton warps are frequently handled in this way. 

Chiffon Twist. Hard-twisted, single, raw-silk threads, having from 
about 50 to 100 turns of twist per inch, more or less, used for making 
chiffons, mousseline de sole, etc. 

Chop. The mark used on an Asiatic silk to identify its quality. 

Cleaning a Warp. See Picking. 

Clean Warp. A warp well made and picked free of yarn imperfec- 
tions. 

Cocoon. The covering that the silk worm spins around itself, which,, 
when unwound, becomes raw silk. 

Color Number. Number used to distinguish a color. Each shade 
should have a name and number. 

Comber Boards. Short and narrow perforated sections or pieces of 
hard board, or one long one, extending from one side of a Jacquard loom 
to the other. The object of the comber board is to spread and guide the 
harness threads, which pass through the holes in the board. 

Compass. An instrument used to space off the sections for a warp. 

Conditioning. The determination of the weight of silk, or other 
material, on the basis of its normal condition, i.e., absolutely dry weight, 
plus 11 per cent, for silk, and other percentages for other materials, rep- 
resenting their ordinary content of moisture. Also colloquially used to 
cover tests for boil-off, size, etc. 

Cone Pulleys. Two pulleys, cone shaped, arranged so that the 
larger end of one is opposite the smaller end of the other. The belt is 
adjusted with the aid of a belt-shifter. Used to vary the speed of a 
machine. 

Cop. A tapered paper tube, used in place of a quill, and the yarn 
on it. Some cops are of solid yarn without any tube. 

Cop Shuttle. A shuttle with a largely recessed interior, and without 
spindle, for holding a cop built up solidly of yarn, used for weaving extra 
thick j^arns. 

Corkscrew-twist. Faulty twist in yarn, giving a corkscrew appear- 
ance, due to uneven tension in the threads twisted together, or marked 
unevenness in their size. 

Cotton. The fiber produced by the cotton plant, the filaments grow- 



116 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

ing out from the seeds, enclosed in the pods. After picking, the fibers 
are torn away from the seeds by the ginning process, the fiber being then 
known as lint cotton. 

Cotton (Uplands). A staple variety of American cotton grown on 
the uplands of the seaboard states of the Atlantic Coast. The grade 
known as Middling Uplands is the standard for cotton quotations. 

Cotton (Egyptian). Long, fine, silky, cotton grown in Egypt, 
Largely used in spinning counts between l/80s. and l/120s. 

Cotton (Gulf or New Orleans). Fine, long stapled, cotton, grown in 
the Mississippi Valley. 

Cotton (Peeler). A superior grade of Mississippi Valley cotton, 
named after a former cotton planter. 

Cotton (Peruvian). Very rough feeling woolly cotton, produced in 
Peru, which grows upon trees. Largely used for mixing with wool. 
(Also called tree cotton.) 

Cotton (Sea Island). Very long-stapled extra fine, superior, cotton 
grown on the islands along the sea-coasts of South Carolina, Georgia, and 
Florida. The South Carolina Sea Island cotton is much the better and 
has no superior. 

Cotton (Carded). Cotton prepared for spinning by the carding 
process. 

Cotton (Combed). Cotton which has been first carded, and then 
combed, being straighter and cleaner than if only carded. 

Cotton Yarn Count. This is based on the number of 840-3''ard 
skeins to the pound. No. 1 =840 yards per pound. No. 2 =1680 yards, 
etc., 2/40s = l/20s; and so on, for other counts. 

Count of Yarn. The number of a yarn indicating its size, from 
which its length per pound can be ascertained. 

Creel. A frame of iron, or part iron and part wood, containing rows 
of iron pins. A glass bar reed extends across the top. Used to hold 
the bobbins for warping. 

Crepe de Chine Twist. Hard-twisted tram, in both right and left- 
hand twist, usually from 40 to 70 turns per inch, and generally made 
from three to five raw-silk ends, used for the filHng of Crepe de Chine. 

Crepe Georgette Twist. Generally made of two threads of 13/15 
denier raw silk, with 50 to 90 turns per inch, right and left-hand twist, 
used for both warp and filling of crepe georgette. 

Crepe Twist. Hard-twisted tram, 30 to 100 turns of twist per inch, 
more or less, used for the making of crepey fabrics. 

Cross. See Lease. 

Cross Bars. Round steel bars, used to make and keep the cross while 
running on a Swiss warping machine. 



GLOSSAEY OF TERMS 117 

Cross Cord. Strong, smooth cord used to keep the cross in a warp. 
(See Cross.) (See Lease Cord.) 

Crossed End. An end that is not in its allotted place in the cross. 
Crossing Sticks. Very smooth, hard wood rods, passed between the 
ends of all weaving warps for maintaining the cross. (See Lease.) 

Cross Reed. A reed used to form the cross. One dent is partially 
closed in two places, about one-third the distance from each end of the 
dent. The next dent is open. These open and closed dents alternate 
singly, or in two, three, four, or irregular, manner according to the require- 
ments. 

One open, one closed = single-cross; 

Two open, two closed = double-cross; 

Three open, three closed = triple-cross ; 

Four open, four closed = quadruple-cross; 

One open, two closed = 1 single-and-double 

Two open, one closed = J cross, etc. (See Lease.) 

Cross Reeled. Skeins wound with a quick to-and-fro movement of 
the guide eye, which lays the threads across each other at a sharp angle 
thus facilitating the winding. (See Grant Reel.) 

Cross Rods. Hard-wood rods, used to make the cross on the hori- 
ozntal warping machine. 

Cut. The length at which a piece of woven cloth is cut off. Most 
usual length of broad-silk cuts, 60 yards, ribbons, 10 yards. 

Cut Down (or Cutting Down). Term used when the number of 
bobbins is gradually decreased while warping. 

Cut Marks. Marks either painted or tied onto a section of a warp at 
designated intervals, for the use of the weaver, who cuts off the woven 
pieces at these marks. 

Degumming. See Boiling-off. 

Denier. A weight equal to 1/20 gramme; used in determining the 
size, or count, of raw silk. The number of deniers which it takes to bal- 
ance the weight of a reeling of the silk 450 meters long, is the denier, or 
size, of that silk. Dividing 4,464,528 by any denierage gives its yardage 
per pound. Dividing it by the yardage per pound gives the denierage. 

Dent. The space between two wires of a reed. Proper Ij'-, the wire 
itself. The number to the inch indicates the count of the reed. 

Dial. An indicator on warping machines for measuring the length of 
the warp. 

Direct Warping Machine. A machine used for making ribbon warps 
direct from the creel, through the cross-reed and space-reed, onto the 
beam. 



118 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

Disk Pulley. A leather-covered shifting pulley, driving against the 
face of a disk for securing variable speeds. 

Disposition. The written order for the working plan or arrangement 
of the threads in a warp. 

Double-and-twist. Threads of different color or character doubled 
together and then twisted. 

Doubling. See Doubling Machine. 

Doubling Machine. Machine used to wind two or more ends from 
two or more bobbins onto one bobbin, to make a doubled or heavier end. 

Doup. A half heddle which twists one of the pair of warp ends round 
the other in grenadine- or leno-weaving. 

Doup Bobbin. A small bobbin with grooved head for tension 
weights used to wind binder threads on. 

Dram. A weight equal to xe of ^^ ounce, Av., used in determining 
the size, or count of thrown silk, based on the weight in drams of 1000 
yards. A 1-dram silk has 256,000 yards per pound, 2 dram silk = 128,000 
yards per pound, and so on. Dividing 256,000 by any dramage gives its 
yardage per pound. Dividing it by the yardage per pound gives the 
dramage. 

Drawing-in. The drawing of the warp ends, individually, through the 
eyes in the heddles of the harness. (Also known as Entering.) 

Drawing-in Frame. A framework support for the warp and its 
set of harness, used while the warp ends are being drawn through the 
harness. 

Draw-side. A machine used for winding from one bobbin to another. 
Doubling and winding machines can be used for this purpose. Also 
known as a Transferring Frame. 

Dyeing. The coloring of silk (or other material) including the boiling- 
"off, weighting, coloring, and other processes. 

Dye Lot Ticket. A tag, or ticket, containing a record of the details 
concerning the dyeing of a lot of yarn. 

Dyer. One who dyes or colors yarn, or other material. 

Djmamited Silk. A current expression for silk weighted with tin 
salts, owing to the destructive effects sometimes experienced. 

Ecru Silk. Thrown silk from which very Httle (say 3 per cent, more 
or less) of the gum has been discharged, leaving it harsh and lusterless. 

Edge Machine. A machine for the purpose of making edges directly 
onto the anchor bobbins. 

Edges. A number of threads specially arranged, generally double or 
triple, to be placed on both sides of the warp, to strengthen and protect 
the edges of the woven cloth. Sometimes made on the beam with 
the warp and sometimes wound on separate bobbins. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 119 

Elevation Irons. The adjustable, flat, iron bars attached lengthwise 
to each slat on the reel of a Swiss warping machine. Used to keep the 
warp level. Also known as grade-bars. 

End. A term applied to any thread used in textile work, more par- 
ticularly applied to a warp thread. 

End-and-End. Alternating threads in a warp of different colors or 
kinds. 

Endy Skeins. Skeins in which a number of threads have been 
broken so that there are loose projecting ends here and there, thus increas- 
ing the difficulty of winding. 

Entering. See Drawing-in. 

English Harness. A harness, the heddles of which are made of 
threads with mails, or metal eyes, in the center, or with eyes made in the 
threads themselves. Frequently stiffened by oil-coating and baking, then 
being known as baked harness. 

English Quill. A quill bored entirely through, such as is used on an 
English Quiller. 

English Quiller. A quilling machine in which the quills are held in a 
vertical position with their points downward, and supported by revolving 
cones, between which the spindle passes. 

Expanding Swift. A wooden winder swift with a bevel gear hub, 
meshing in with bevel gears at the foot of each arm. According to the 
way the hub is turned, the arms will work out, or in, thus changing the 
outer circumference. 

Eye Shade. A flexible shield used to protect the eyes from strong, 
glaring light. 

Faller Wires. Light wires connected with the stop-motions on 
doubling machines, reels, etc., through the eyes of which the moving 
threads pass, and which support the wires in position. When a thread 
breaks, the wire supported by it falls, and in so doing actuates the stop- 
motion mechanism and stops the spindle. 

False Reed. See Back Reed. 

Fancy Stripes. Any warp made in a stripe effect, either with various 
colors or one color, specially spaced or arranged. (See Stripe Warp.) 

Filling. The threads running crosswise in cloth. Same as Weft. 

Fine End. A silk thread that is too thin in places, caused by faulty 
raw-silk reeling. 

Flake Yarn. A fancy yarn, usually with a cotton foundation, 
showing flakes, or slugs, of untwisted fibers at intervals. 

Flange-head Beam. A beam having an adjustable disk, or flange, on 
each side, for beaming warps without the use of paper. 

Flat. An imperfection in the cross, where an end is either left out, or 



120 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

the cross improperly taken, with an uneven number of ends, bringing 
two ends in the same cross, instead of one up and one down. 

Float. An imperfection in the cloth, where th^ filling crosses — or 
floats — over warp ends which it should pass under. 

Floss Silk. A soft silk yarn, practically without twist, used for 
embroidering. Also waste silk thrown off by the worm before beginning 
its cocoon. 

Flyer. A small iron weight, fitted with a wire swivel-guide and short 
pin, to place on an upright bobbin of doubled threads, to twist and guide 
the thread while winding onto the quill. Also a bent- wire guide used on a 
spinning spindle. 

French Harness. A harness made with top and bottom wooden slats, 
and looped threads between, two pairs of looped threads acting as one 
heddle. As it wears, the position of the threads can be changed, thus 
affording an unworn surface for contact with the warp. This " turning " 
can be done several times, thus lengthening its life. It is an excellent 
harness for dyed silk warps. 

French Quill. A quill which is only bored through a portion of its 
length, the point being solid. 

French Quiller. A machine for quill winding, the spindles being 
arranged in a horizontal position, and on which French quills are 
used. 

Friction-drive Pulley. A loose pulley which is operated by a 
clutch, running against the driving pulley. Used for starting or stopping 
a machine. 

Glass Reed. A reed made of glass, with a wooden frame, mounted 
on top of the warp bobbin creel. 

Glass-reed Bars. Long, heavy round-glass rods, fixed at the bot- 
tom of the glass reeds. 

Glass-reed Dents. Small, rod-shaped, pieces of glass, used to form 
the reed on top of the creel. 

Grant Reel. A reel arranged with a guide traversing quickly back 
and forth, thus forming a skein with the threads crossing each other at 
sharp angles, greatly facilitating winding. Named after its inventor, 
and now universally used. (See Cross Reeled.) 

Grenadine. An open-mesh silk dress fabric, in which the warp ends 
twist round the filling picks, thus preventing slippage. 

Grenadine Twist. Hard twisted organzine suitable for the warp of 
Grenadines, which must stand severe friction. Usual twists run between 
the limits of 20/18 and 60/60 turns per inch. 

Grooved Pulley. A narrow-faced, grooved, pulley driven by a 
twisted belt, or a round belt. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 121 

Guard. String. A cord tied from the carriage to the creel on each side 
of the section to protect the ends when warping. 

Guiders. Small, porcelain, glass, or enamel guides, of various shapes, 
used on all winding, quilling and doubling machines, to guide the threads 
on the bobbins or quills. 

Guider Rail. A thin, wooden, rail, the length of the winding machine, 
riding upon small rollers, carrying the guiders, and traversing back and 
forth to spread the threads onto the bobbins. 

Gum Silk. Thrown silk from which the gum has not been boiled-off . 

Hairy Yarn. A thread that appears to be covered with hair. Can- 
ton silks are usually hairy. 

Hard Silk. Silk from which the natural gum has not been removed. 

Hard Twist. See Crepe de Chine Twist, Crepe Twist, etc. 

Harness. A mechanism of the loom for causing the warp threads to 
open in a prearranged manner. Consists of a series of light wooden 
frames surrounding the warp, equipped with thread, or wire, heddles, run- 
ning vertically from bottom to top within the frames, and with an eye 
in the center of each heddle. There are as many frames as are required 
by the weave, and a heddle for each warp thread. The alternate rising 
and falling of the harnesses in the orderly separation of the warp threads^ 
with the filling picks passing between them, creates the weave of a cloth. 
Jacquard harnesses are differently arranged. 

Harness Building Machine. An automatic machine for building 
thread harnesses, French or English. Can build them plain or spaced. 

Harness Loom. See description under Harness. Same as Shaft Loom. 

Harness-skips. A row of floating warp threads across a piece of 
cloth, where the warp ends have not been caught and bound down, as, 
they should, by the filling pick. 

Head Ends. Same as Headings. 

Headings. The beginning and ending of a piece of cloth, generally- 
woven with some remnant material for filling. 

Heavy Warp. A warp containing a great number of ends ; a very long 
warp; a warp of very coarse j^arn. 

Heddle. See description under Harness. 

Horizontal Direct Warping Machine. One upon which the sections 
are wound straight. 

Horizontal Swiss-motion Warping Machine. One that winds the 
sections with a traverse motion. 

Jack-roll. A cylindrical wooden beam, having flat, large heads, with 
an iron pin in each end. Used to wind the doup warp upon for grenadine. 

Jacquard Machine. A machine, named after its inventor, for raising 
and lowering the harness threads in a loom, each thread having its indi- 



122 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

vidual heddle. By its use, figured patterns of large size can be made, 
as against the very small patterns which the harness loom can make. 

Kinked Yarn. A thread which kinks or snarls. 

Kneeboard. A narrow board across the full length of a winding 
machine, in front, to protect the swifts. 

Lace Cord. A smooth, heavy, braided cotton cord in which the fibers 
of the silk cannot catch, used for lease cords, tying skeins in bundles, etc. 

Laces. The tie bands or separations in skeins made from suitably 
twisted cotton yarns. 

Lapped Sections. Part of one section lapped over another, caused 
by inaccurate spacing while warping. 

Lathe, or Lay. The strong, wooden beam, across the front of a loom, 
containing the reed, shuttle boxes and shuttle race. It moves forward 
to allow the reed to beat the filling into place while weaving, then back. 

Lease. The passing between the threads of a warp, of cords, or sticks, 
above and below which the threads cross alternately. Also known as the 
Cross. 

Lease Cord. See Cross Cord. 

Light Warp. A warp consisting of a small number of ends; a short 
warp; a warp made of fine yarn. 

Lingo. A thin wire having an eye at one end; used as a weight on the 
end of each Jacquard harness thread. 

Lint. The fine, dustlike, fibrous particles which come from yarn. 
They fly around in the air and, if colored, may cause imperfections in 
white work. 

Long End. An end which is found to be one or more rounds of the 
reel longer than the rest of the warp when beamed. Due to imperfect 
warping or beaming. 

Long Section. A section which is one or more rounds of the reel 
longer than the rest of the warp when beamed. Due to an error on the 
part of the operative. 

Loom A machine for weaving cloth. 

Loom Mounting. Disposing a drawn-in warp, with its harness and 
reed, in a loom, preparatory to weaving. 

Lot. Term used for a quantity of yarn. 

Lot Ticket. A tag or card containing the necessary details concern- 
ing a lot of yarn. 

Lousy Silk. Silk which exhibits many small light-colored specks on 
its surface, principally due to the splitting and curling up of fine fibers. 

Lumps. Any waste, slugs, or other heavy yarn imperfections. 

Mail. A small metal eye, used in the heddle of a Jacquard or other 
harness thread, to pass the warp thread through. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 123 

Mercerized Cotton. Cotton yarn (or fabric) which, after being 
treated with cold caustic soda solution while under tension, and then 
washed, acquires a silky appearance in the process. Called after Mercer, 
who introduced the method. 

Meter. A linear measure = 39.37 +inches, upon which the Metric 
System is based. Generally, but inaccurately, figured as 10 per cent 
more than one yard in textile calculating. 

Metric Count. A No. 1 yarn weighs 1 gramme for 1 meter = 1 Kg. 
for a thousand meters. No. 100 weighs 1 Kg. for 100,000 meters, etc. 
(See Meter.) 

Mispick. A pick, or part of a pick, left out of the cloth, due to 
breakage, or quill becoming empty. 

Mixed Fabric. A fabric constructed of materials of different kinds, 
as silk and cotton. 

Neck Cord. A short and strong cord, looped at the ends, connecting 
the hooks on a Jacquard machine with the harness threads. 

Ombre. Shaded; graduated in shade, or color. 

Ombre Warp. A warp containing a series of shades of a color or 
colors, shaded from light to dark, or vice versa. 

One Beam Warp. A warp, the whole of which is contained on one 
beam. 

Operative. One who operates, or runs a machine. 

Organzine. Silk specially twisted for use as warp. Two (or more) 
raw-silk threads, which have been well twisted in the single, are doubled 
and then twisted the reverse way; 16 turns in the first time twisting, and 
14 turns reverse twist, is the most usual arrangement. 

Paraffine. A species of wax used to facilitate the working of yarns. 

Parting Stick. A wooden rod used for parting, pulling and dressing 
skeins on, for improving their winding qualities. 

Pattern. A design, or arrangement of figures, stripes, checks, etc., for 
fabrics. 

Pattern Warp. Same as Sample Blanket. 

Picks. See Filling. 

Pick-bone. See Bone Pick. 

Picking. Removing odd threads, lumps or similar blemishes from 
warps and woven fabrics. The movement of a loom as it drives the 
shuttle across. In the spinning of cotton, wool, etc., a preliminary open- 
ing up given to the stock in preparation for carding. 

Picking Tongs. An implement used in picking the imperfections 
from silk fabrics, having a needle point at one end, and a pair of clip- 
ping jaws at the other. 

Piece. A length of goods. Standard lengths of })road silks for the 



124 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

various trades and fabrics are 40, 60, 75 and 100 yards, 60 being the most 
common. Ribbons come in 10-yard pieces. 

Piecing Bobbin. A partially-filled bobbin of yarn, the same as used 
in the warp, used for piecing or tjdng broken ends in warping or weaving. 

Pigtails. Metal, or porcelain guide ej'^es, with the ends curling round 
once or twice in a circle. 

Pin Axle. Small iron pin fitted on each side of a winding swift hub. 

Pin Cops. Cops of yarn, almost solid, with a short paper tube at the 
base as a guide to the spindle, which is forced through the rest of the cop. 
Also applied generally to small-sized cops. 

Pipe Creel. A creel made of iron piping. The pin rails are adjustable 
and made of iron bars attached to the pipe frame with sockets and set 
screws. 

Plain Warp. One made with one kind and color of yarn. 

Pure Dye. Silk colored, but not weighted. 

Quill. A tapered wooden cylinder, bored lengthwdse through the 
center to fit onto spindles while winding the yarn from bobbins. Used 
in the shuttle at the loom, to supply the filling. 

Quill-board. A board containing rows of pins on which quills are 
placed to carry them to the loom. 

Quilling. The operation of winding onto quills. (See Spooling.) 

Quilling Machine. A machine used for winding yarn from bobbins 
onto quills, cops or tubes. See English Quiller and French Quiller. 

Raw Silk. Silk in thread form, as it has been unwound from the 
cocoons, the thread being composed of several cocoon filaments. 

Raw Silk Count. See Denier. 

Re-drawing. (Also called Back- winding or Transferring.) The 
unwinding of wound threads from one bobbin and re-winding them 
onto another. Useful in regularizing the tension. 

Reed. A series of flat metal blades, or thin wires, arranged like the 
teeth of a comb, and held in place at both top and bottom. Used to keep 
the ends separate and in their proper places while warping and wea\dng. 
The main function of a loom reed is to beat up the filling picks into the 
cloth. 

Reed-frame. A wooden frame for holding a reed. 

Reed-holder. A wire, hook shaped at each end, used to support the 
reed on the creel while reeding. 

Reed-hook. A thin metal-blade, hook shaped at one end, the other 
inserted in a handle. Used to pull the ends through the reed. 

Reeding. The operation of putting the warp ends through the reed 
in their designated order. Also called *' sticking the reed." Also called 
" Sleying." 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 125 

Reeding Knives. Small, thin, flat strips of metal, hard-wood, or 
bone — usually the latter — about 3| inches long by f inch wide, notched 
near the ends, used in drawing the warp threads through the dents of the 
reed, the process being called " reeding " or " sticking the reed." Two 
are used at a time, being passed through each dent alternately, the one in 
the dent acting as a guide for the other when it is put through the following 
dent. Coarser or finer " knives " will be used according to the spacings 
of the reed. 

Reed Ombre. A shaded, or ombre effect, produced in cloth, warp 
ways, by the irregular spacing of the warp through the reed, putting more 
threads in some dents, and fewer in others. 

Reel. A cylindrical frame upon which warps are wound. There is 
also a reel used for winding skeins. 

Reeler. The operative who runs a yarn reel. 

Reeling. The operation of unwinding the silk from cocoons to form 
raw silk. The winding of j^arn from bobbins into skein form. 

Remnants. Small quantities of yarn, woven cloth, etc., left over. 

Rings (in raw silk). Places where the thread in raw-silk reeling has 
escaped from the traverse guide, and has revolved for some distance in a 
ring instead of in its usual crossed form. Increases the difficulty and the 
waste in winding. 

Ringer. An end which breaks while warping or beaming and remains 
on the reel after the warp is beamed off. 

Roll (of yarn). A number of skeins made up into a roll. 

Sample Blanket. A short length of goods made for samples, having 
sections of different colors in the warp, and shot with a variety of 
different fillings. (Same as Pattern Warp.) 

Schappe. Spun-silk 3'arn, more particularly, when m'ade from stock 
which has been degummed by the schapping, or maceration process. (See 
Spun Silk.) 

Scroop. A creaking or crunching sound which silk makes when 
squeezed or twisted. It can be artificially produced by special treat- 
ments. 

Section. See Band. 

Section Hooks. Small wire hooks, used for short warps, to hook the 
end of the finished sections upon. 

Section Marks. Streaks in cloth which are caused by faultj' spacing, 
or uneven tension, of the sections in warping. 

Section Pins. A row of small pins inserted into one of the slats on 
the reel of a warping machine upon which the sections are hooked when 
starting. 

Selvage. See Edges. 



126 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

Shaft Loom. Same as Harness Loom. 

Shed. A term applied to the space created when part of the ends in 
a warp are lifted and the remainder left in place. When weaving, every 
pick, or shot, of the shuttle goes through the shed thus made by the 
pattern mechanism. 

Short End. An end broken, or lost, while warping, and which, when 
found and repaired, is one or more rounds of the reel too short. 

Short Section. A section which, through an error of the warper, is 
found to be one or more rounds of the reel shorter than the rest, when the 
warp is beamed. 

Shuttle. A wooden, steel-tipped, carrier for the filling, used on the 
loom to shoot the filling into the cloth. 

Silk. A fine, lustrous, thread, produced from the cocoon of a silk 
worm. 

Silk Reeling. See Reeling. 

Silk Waste. Wastage is made in all operations of manipulating 
silk. The wastes made in the silk-reeling and silk-throwing processes, 
including the pierced cocoons, are the materials from which spun silk is 
made. (See Waste.) 

Single-and-double Warps. Warps made with a variation of threads, 
giving two ends for the face to one on the back, or vice versa. 

Singles. Name applied to thrown silk where single threads only have 
been twisted, as used for Chiffon, etc. Also applied to raw-silk threads 
when used as warp. (See Chiffon Twist.) 

Single Weaving. Weaving of fabrics made with raw-silk warps, 
such as cotton-back satins, etc. 

Size. The term used to designate the thickness and weight of a yarn. 
Same as the Count. 

Sizing. The treatment of fabrics, or of yarns, with a dressing, or 
sizing to render them smooth and firm. Also, the weighing of sample 
lengths of yarns to determine their count. 

Skein. A hank of yarn; the circumference, for silk being usually 45 
to 54 inches. 

Skein Dressing Pole. A strong, short pole, horizontally attached to 
a standard, or to the wall, for spreading, dressing, and parting the skeins 
to clear them preparatory to winding. 

Skein Dyeing. The degumming, weighting, dyeing, etc., of silk, or 
other yarns, in the skein. 

Skinny Bobbins. Bobbins upon which only a small amount of yarn 
has been wound. 

Slat. One of the horizontal wooden slats on a warping reel. (See 
Stave.) 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 127 

Sleeper. An end which breaks and stops at the reed, but does not 
curl or snarl and does not run with the other ends. 

Slubs. Soft, irregular, lumps found in yarn. Same as Slugs. 

Slugs. Soft, thick, lumpy places in a yarn. Same as Slubs. 

Smash. A place where a large number of warp threads have been 
broken, due to the loom beating up and catching the shuttle in the shed 
before it has passed through. Also, applied to similar breakage of warp 
threads in warping. 

Soaking. A treatment accorded to raw silk, as a preliminary to 
throwing, w^here the silk is immersed for some hours in a bath of tepid 
water containing an emulsion of soap and oil, much of which the silk 
takes up and retains. 

Soft End. In a yarn that is twisted, an end that is without twist in 
places. 

Soft Silk. Thrown silk yarn from which the gum has been dis- 
charged, undyed or dyed. 

Souple Silk. Skein-dyed silk from which only about half the gum 
has been removed in the boiling-off. It is duller looking and firmer than 
silk completely degummed. 

Spaced Harness. A harness built with alternate spaces between the 
heddles for use in weaving striped warps. 

Space-reed. A reed used for spacing and guiding the section while 
warping. 

Speed (of a pulley or machine). The,number of revolutions during 
a given period of time. 

Spindle. An iron or wooden pin, or small bar. Also, a pin having a 
small pulle}' head on one end, and a spring affixed lengthwise, for holding 
the bobbin while winding. Also a revolving tapered spindle for spin- 
ning. 

Spinning. The twisting of textile fibers-cotton, wool, spun silk, etc., 
to make them hold together and form a 3'arn. Also applied to the twisting 
of silk in the throwing process. Sometimes applied to the unwinding of 
the raw silk from the cocoons. 

SpUt End. A thread in which one of the sub-threads, composing it 
breaks, making a serious defect. 

Spool. See Bobbin. 

Spooling. See Quilling. 

Spun-silk Count. Same as Cotton Yarn Count, except that two (or 
more) ply yarns are stated differently. In spun silks, 60/1, 60/2, 60/3, 
60/4, etc., will each be a yarn counting 60x840 3^ards =50,400 yards per 
pound, made up of 1, 2, 3, or 4 threads, respectivel3^ On the Continent, > 
spun silk, or schappe, is numbered by the metric system. 



128 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

I 

Standard. Term applied for the warp thread around which the doup 
thread twists in grenadines. 

Stave. See Slat. 

Step Cone Pulley. A pulley consisting of a series of steps. Used 
for changing the speed of a machine. 

Sticky Ends. Fine fibers on the threads, atmospheric conditions, 
dyeing treatment, or poor tension, sometimes cause the ends to cling 
together, and they are then termed sticky. 

Stop Motion. A device to automatically stop a machine or part of a 
machine. 

Straight Reeled. Skeins reeled without the use of a traverse motion, 
or with a slow-moving traverse, as distinguished from cross-reeled, in 
which a quick-moving traverse is used. 

Streaky Warp. Streaks or defects lengthwise of the warp. 

Stripe Warp. See Fancy Stripes. 

Swift. A skeleton frame reel, consisting of a hub, with a pin on each 
side for axles, and having a double row of tapered spokes. Used for 
holding and spreading the skein while winding. 

Swift Spokes (or sticks). Thin, tapered wooden sticks, used as 
spokes in winder swifts. 

Swiss Motion. So far as can be ascertained, this is an old Swiss 
invention, used on warping machines, to build up sections, gradually 
inclining, on the elevation-irons so that each consecutive round over- 
laps the preceding one, the overlapping part at the beginning of the 
warp, resting on the elevation-irons. In this way, warps can be made 
of any desired length without the use of guides, or flanges, which 
otherwise would be needed to prevent the ends at the edges of each 
section from moving out of place, thereby making their tensions irreg- 
ular, a defect that is bound to cause endless trouble. Anj^ number of 
sections may be made in this way, with all the threads level and in 
place, and held at equal tension, until the necessary width of the warp 
has been attained, each section being an exact repetition of the first. 
When the warp, which has thus been built up in sections, is finished, 
it is beamed off as a whole in one operation, and this applies to warps 
made on large reels as Vv^ell as those made on small reels. 

Swiss Warping Machine. One with Swiss motion, smaller, and 
differently constructed than a horizontal machine. 

Take-off Machine. A small, portable, hand-power machine, used to 
wind edges onto bobbins. 

Tension. Weight or tightness. 

Tension Strap. A band of iron, generally leather-lined, used to 
appl}^ tension with weights, while beaming a waip. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS 129 

Tension Weights. Iron weights of various sizes, used to take 
up the slack, and keep tight the threads, while winding, warping or 
weaving. 

Textile Mill. A mill conducting any of the processes incident to the 
fabrication of textiles. 

Thread Finishing. The sizing, or dressing of individual threads of 
yarn to impart smoothness and firmness. 

Throwing. The combining and twisting of raw-silk threads in vari- 
ous ways, thus making it practicable to dye them in the skein. 

Thrown-silk Count. See Dram. 

Throwster. One who conducts a silk-throwing business. This 
work is largelj^ done on commission. 

Thrum. The end of a warp where the threads are knotted together. 

Tram. Raw-silk threads doubled together and twisted, usually about 
two to five turns per inch, used for filling. 

Traverse. A device used on reels, winders, quillers, etc., which 
automatically shifts, to and fro, the thread which is being wound, and 
so spreads it evenlj^ from side to side of the skein, bobbin or quill. 

Twisting. The uniting of the threads of a new warp to those of one 
woven out, bj^ twisting the threads together. Also applied to the putting 
in of the second-time twist in throwing. Also to the twisting together of 
two or more single threads to make a ply j^arn. 

Twisting-in Frame. A framework in which is placed a warp, on 
its beam, ready to be twisted, as well as the old warp, and its beam, to 
which the new one is to be twisted. 

Twisting-in Machine. A machine which performs the twisting-in 
process mechanically. 

Twist Tester. A mechanical contrivance for determining the amount 
of twist in sample lengths of j^arn which are being tested. 

Two-beam Work. Fabrics which require two warps mounted on 
separate beams, for their production. Three beams, and even more, have 
sometimes to be used. 

Tying-up. See Banking Up. 

Warp. The threads running lengthwise in cloth. 

Warp Beam. See Beam. 

Warping. The process of making a warp. 

Warping Machine. See Horizontal Warping Machine. See Swiss 
Warping Machine. 

Warp Order Ticket. A printed form containing the plan and ar- 
rangement of a warp, showing how it is to be made. 

Warp Picking Frame. A frame upon which a warp maj'' be stretched 
out for picking and cleaning, the warp unwinding from one side of the 



130 GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

frame, and being rewound on a beam at the other side. It may be oper- 
ated by hand or bj'' power. 

Warp Print. A pattern printed on a warp before it is woven. 

Waste. Cuttings, pickings, damaged yarn, etc., made during the 
various processes of textile manufacture. (See Silk Waste.) 

Weave. Interlacing of the warp and filling threads t6 form a fabric. 
Construction of a cloth. 

Weft. See Filling. 

Weighted Silk. Silk which has been increased in weight and bulk 
by the addition of adulterants. 

Winding. The process of transferring j'-arn from skeins onto bobbins. 

Woolen Yarn. Yarn made from carded wool. 

Woolen Yarn Count. The Philadelphia count is based on the cut of 
300 yards to the number, 1 cut being 300 j^ards per pound, 10 cut, 3000 
yards, etc. The New England count is based on the run of 1600 yards to 
the number, 1 run being 1600 yards per pound, 5 run, 8000 yards per 
pound, etc. 

Worm Screw. A long steel bar with a screw thread, which controls 
the traverse motion on a Swiss-motion warp machine. 

Worsted Yam. A woolen yarn, which, before spinning, has been 
straightened, leveled, and cleaned by the combing process. IMade from 
wool specially selected for the purpose. 

Worsted Count. This is based on the number of 560-3^ard skeins 
to the pound. No. 1 is 560 yards per pound. No. 2, 1120 j^ards. 2/40s 
= l/20s = 11,200 yards per pound. 

Yarn. Any kind of thread intended for weaving which has been spun 
and twisted. 



I 



INDEX 



PAGB 

Artificial silks 19 

Banking, tying up, and reeding a plain or one-colored warp 26 

Beaming machines 62 

power and speeds for 72 

Beaming paper, quality and quantity of 55 

Beaming warps 36 

Binders, selvages, or edges 71 

Bobbins that spin off the pins 50 

advantages of good supply of 82 

proper number to wind for warp 39 

waste on 59 

Bobbin weights, table of 96 

Book systems. . 97 

Brake strap 49 

Careless methods - 53 

Careless warper operatives 68 

Careless winder operatives 17 

Changing one's position 98 

Complaints 86 

Creel, the 46 

comparison of, with set on full bobbins and one with partly filled 

bobbins 49 

Damaged warping reed 67 

Defective fabrics 106 

Defects, miscellaneous Ill 

silk-throwing 108 

skem and quill-winding 109 

warping 109 

yarn-spinning 108 

Dining, dressing, and emergency rooms 97 

Direct warping machine, advantages over horizontal Swiss motion . . 41 

Disposition warps 38, 45 

Doubling materials, process of 80 

131 



132 INDEX 

PAGE 

Dyeing defects , 108 

Edges, selvages, or binders 71 

Elevation irons, adjustment of 25 

Fastening or securing the end on a wound bobbin 15 

First section, preparing, to wind on reel 31 

winding on reel 33 

Floor space, plan for machinery 93 

Foreman, duties of 100 

Glossary of terms 113 

Guard string 50 

Guiders 8 

Hazardous figuring 51 

Help, dismissing, temporarily 86 

employing 83 

Horizontal warping, short and long sections in 57 

Inventory, a few reminders for 99 

Knots, making and tying 16 

varieties of 15 

Lease, importance of 67 

Light 88 

Loom and weaving defects 110 

Luncheon 95 

Machinery, arranging 91 

floor space, plan for 93 

Materials, treatment and care of 1 

Measuring dial, setting 32 

Memorandum book 54 

'Mill administration, efficient Ill 

Mistakes, avoidable 56 

Mixing in the winding operation 17 

Oil spots, tracing 95 

Ombre warps 61 

One-colored warp, banking, tying up, and reeding 26 

Operatives, inexperienced 60 

tracing workmanship of 18 

Order clerk, duties of 56 

Power and speed for winding machines 8, 72 

Power-driving devices 33 

Picking the warp 64 

Quill board fillers 79 

Quilling 76, 78 



INDEX 133 

PAGE 

Quilling and filling supply department 78 

machines, power and speeds for 72 

Reeding a plain or one-colored warp, banking, tying up, and 26 

cro;^:^ reea 27 

wide space , 29 

Repairs 94 

Rules and regulations 101 

Selvages, edges, or binders 71 

Silks, artificial 19 

Silk-throwing defects 108 

Skein and quill-winding defects 109 

Space reed, method of reeding 29, 50 

Spindles 8 

Starting mark of first section, ascertaining 29 

Stock ticket 1 

Supplies needed 95 

Sweeping 96 

Swift braces 6 

Swiss motion attachment, advantages of, used on horizontal 43 

Swiss motion machines, making warps in 61 

Swiss warping machines, handling 61 

Tension weights, iron 7 

Treadle strain -, 59 

Tying up a plain or one-colored warp, banking, reeding and 26 

Unfinished sections 45 

Wages, to regulate 89 

Warp, lost ends in 45 

orders, new 50 

picking 64 

second section of 34 

Warping defects 109 

necessary tools for 75 

operations, valuable points in 44 

reeds, damaged 67 

short and long sections in horizontal warping 57 

systems 21 

with low grade of silk 63 

Warping machines 21 

power and speeds for 72 

makeshifts for horizontal 73 

Swiss, handling 61 



134 INDEX 

PAGE 

Warps, beaming 36 

construction of, containing more ends in pattern than pins on creel 51 

disposition 45 

fancy stripes and ombres on horizontal machine without Swiss 

motion 38 

increased length of due to increased circumference 52 

making, on horizontal or all-Swiss motion machines 40 

ombr^ , 61 

sample, made on horizontal machine 61 

using old yarn in 69 

Waste of materials. 87 

Waste on bobbins 59 

Winder bobbin stopper device 18 

Winder swifts 5 

Winding coarse material 17 

Winding first section on reel 33 

Winding in general 9 

Winding machinery 3 

power and speed for 8 

space 4 

Winding operation, mixing in the 17 

Yard and meter measure 97 

Yarns, available 46 

white, treatment of 67 



